PARIS — It looks like the resort bubble may have finally burst.
Christian Dior, which last May staged a splashy, celebrity-studded megashow in New York, is skipping the runway this season, WWD has learned. And Gucci, which has staged runway shows in New York and Rome for its cruise collection, is opting instead for a presentation at its New York flagship boutique on June 15 and 16.
Dior plans to present its collection to buyers in Paris and New York, but dates and details have yet to be finalized, according to a spokesman for the French fashion house.
The scaling back leaves Chanel alone among big European houses staging full-scale runway shows for cruise, a selling season that had accrued more glamour, hype and showmanship in recent years.
As reported, Karl Lagerfeld is heading to Venice May 14 to show Chanel’s latest cruise collection at the Excelsior Resort’s Lido Beach, with about 350 guests expected. Privately held Chanel has staged fashion shows for cruise for about a decade, including on boats, buses and in an airport hangar, the models disembarking from a CC-logo jet.
Gucci led the way to a bigger and more protracted cruise season when it staged its first show for the interim season in lower Manhattan’s Gagosian Gallery in 2005. Dior joined the New York cruise calendar in 2006, and Oscar de la Renta staged an extravaganza of his own at the Morgan Library.
De la Renta is planning to have a resort show on June 1, but the location has yet to be determined.
Alberta Ferretti jumped the Atlantic in 2007 to show her cruise, a one-time appearance, while Proenza Schouler and Thakoon were among younger brands who showed resort collections for the first time. Contemporary brand Milla went further that year and flew about 75 fashion editors to a resort in Mexico to experience the collection.
Last year, while luxury was still riding high, Dior opened the resort marathon in mid-May with a poolside fashion fiesta at Guastavino’s attended by Jennifer Lopez, Charlize Theron, Christina Aguilera, Leighton Meester and Ziyi Zhang.
Last June, Diane von Furstenberg headed for Florence at the invitation of Pitti Immagine with a collection that hailed back to the fashionably wealthy American on vacation with a whiff of “The Talented Mr. Ripley.” The season wrapped up July 8 when Gucci designer Frida Giannini showed cruise in Rome at its renovated flagship.
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)
@Pharrell and his wife Helen Lasichanh were among the stars that came out to celebrate @rimowa’s first pop-up concept shop. The space, which is located on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, draws inspiration from airport luggage carousels and lounge areas – and features the company’s luggage and accessories. If the pop-up is successful it could pave the way for addition temporary shops throughout the world. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA)
@carineroitfeld celebrated @crfashionbook’s first calendar last night with a dinner party at Spring Place in Manhattan. Photographed by @stevenkleinstudio, the calendar takes on a fitness theme and features @joansmalls, @gigihadid, @danielle_herrington_ – pictured here – and more. “[Carine Roitfeld] wanted me to feel sexy and she wanted me to be myself and feel it out on my own and do what I felt was right,” said Herrington, aka Miss October. #wwdeye
@saintrecords and @virgilabloh last night at @americanexpress’ “A Night With Success Makers” event. “I always bring it back to community because without that I wouldn’t have the courage,” said Knowles when asked how she has gotten where she is now. Read more highlights from their conversation on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lizdoupnik)
This Just In: Industry sources have told WWD that Anastasia Soare is rumored to be considering selling her beauty business, @anastasiabeverlyhills. According to those sources, Soare has tapped investment bank Imperial Capital to explore sale options for her eponymous beauty brand –– and with at least $340 million in net sales, this would be a big deal. Put in context of other recent transactions for makeup companies, Soare’s price tag could be in the billions if she were to sell the whole thing. #wwdnews #wwdbeauty (📷: @clint_spaulding)
@assouline’s latest book, “The Spirit of Bentley: Be Extraordinary” captures the adventurous attitudes and opulent lifestyles of @bentleymotors’ most creative owners and enthusiasts throughout the U.K. The 292-page hardcover has a section dedicated to showing its team of skilled artisans and photos of its most colorful owners, from George Bamford to designer @alicetemperley, pictured here by Aline Coquelle. #wwdeye
@google released its report on the most popular search terms this year. For fashion brands, the list was led by @gucci, the luxury brand that stunned the market last October when it pledged to stop using fur. Runner ups were @supremenewyork and @fashionnova, along with more established brands like @louisvuitton, @chanelofficial and @ysl. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)