Talk about contradictions. Designers looked to beautiful essentials while feeding their cyber obsessions with live-streamed shows and online sales.
Grasping the new, the bold, the unknown—an essential, at least when it comes to matters of the sartorial sort. Fashion is supposed to push ahead aggressively and unafraid, leading its devotees into uncharted lands the splendors of which we could not imagine until swept there on an adventurous stylistic wave. Or maybe that’s what we all like to think. Because from an overall design standpoint, the fall 2010 collections were less about intrepid exploration than celebrating the glories of that which we already know and love, a motif that held tremendous sway on runways from New York to Paris.
At this particular moment, familiar felt not only comforting and lovely, but chic. It didn’t play as an apology for the absence of imagination, but rather, as the stuff of serious, essential fashion. As Marc Jacobs noted before his show, “sometimes beautiful is enough.”
Showing as he does so early in the season, Jacobs established fall’s overarching motif of classics-plus, his runway an enticing lineup of neutral-toned greatest hits. Before the season drew to a close in Paris, he would be joined in his proclivities by numerous others, including Michael Kors, who went overtly luxe with pairings of fur and gray flannel; Dries Van Noten, who cross-pollinated various retro references, and Stella McCartney, who worked the sparest side of winter chic. And by Miuccia Prada, even if characteristically she managed to pervert Fifties-ish themes with her girls’ stiffly ruffled bosoms and slighted twisted secretarial air.
From beginning to end, numerous houses sang the song of self with undisguised delight. In a gorgeous 25th anniversary affair, Donna Karan celebrated the easy-pieces mantra on which she founded her house. Ralph Lauren took inspiration for his beautifully realized boho lineup in one of his own ads from 1993. At Gucci, Frida Giannini finally stopped fighting the steamy house history written a fashion lifetime ago by Tom Ford, and her acceptance resulted in a strong, sexy collection, while Donatella Versace went hot, colorful and flashy just like in the old days. Meanwhile, on the topic of roots, Domenico Dolce declared Dolce & Gabbana an ode to “sartorialità, like my father used to make,” as well as Sicilianità and sensualità—not to mention great style. Even relative babe Jason Wu did some backtracking of sorts, reimagining the meaty sportswear of his tough-chic pre-fall lineup through the lens of prettiness for which he’s known.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)