LONDON — Clements Ribeiro will unveil a full ready-to-wear collection, its first since spring 2006, during London Fashion Week, which kicks off today.
The collection comes on the heels of Clements Ribeiro’s cashmere capsule collections, which have been selling well at stores including Barneys New York, Liberty, Colette and Dover Street Market for the past two seasons.
“We always wanted to get back to ready-to-wear, and we’ve built this collection around the cashmere,” said Inacio Ribeiro, who designs with his wife, Suzanne Clements.
He said they were also looking to open a combined studio space and retail store in their London neighborhood, Bayswater, by early next year. Ribeiro said they want “to re-connect with and reach out to our clients in a way that the big brands can’t.”
For the past two seasons, the two have been creating cashmere sweaters with adornments such as vintage jet, sequins and lace, grosgrain ribbons, frogging and pearls. The cashmere yarn is also vintage and has been sourced from Scottish mills.
Their fall collection features cashmere and angora blend coats; two-, three-, and four-ply cashmere knits, and silk dresses with adornments such as cameo or crystal buttons, grosgrain epaulets and pearl-encrusted zips. Retail prices start at about 450 pounds, or $640, for a cashmere top.
“We think there is a lot of demand out there for craftsmanship and a more artisanal product, something unique,” he said.
Ribeiro said the two are currently in talks with potential investors, but the plan is to remain small and evolve slowly. He said no runway shows are planned, and for the moment the couple will sell out of their homes in London and Paris.
“We are in no hurry, and we want to move along with the market,” said Ribeiro. He added the couple also planned to launch a limited edition collection of cashmere knits that would be sold in July for delivery in September, as well as a footwear collection.
The two have been restructuring their operations since putting their company into voluntary liquidation in 2005 and are self-financed. The couple debuted their label in the Nineties and their collection rapidly became one of the brightest lights of London Fashion Week, known for its mixing of patterns in rtw and innovative cashmere knitwear designs, which helped spark the trend toward color block intarsias.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast