Riccardo Tisci worked Latin American references into his collection for Givenchy, while Alessandra Facchinetti went for a youthful update on the ladylike house classics at Valentino.
Givenchy: Riccardo Tisci's show invitation featured a great big dragonfly — a clue, perhaps? The symbolic interpretations are endless, but there's an old wives' tale that dragonflies indicate good news. Here, it was most apt. Fall proved to be a major step forward for the designer, commercially viable and — dare we say it — practically pretension-free. Tisci tossed aside the cerebral stuff and opted for an inspiration with far more feeling: Latin American elegance and sensualidad, inspired by his trips to the area over the past few years.
Tisci's Hispanic takes glanced back — way back — to old-world conquistador style. He tipped his sombrero to Cortés and company with the kickoff looks — models draped in miles and piles of gold-chain bounty. Then the olé references, set to catchy Brazilian favela beats, came fast and furious — toreador-style jackets with rounded shoulders, sexy off-the-shoulder gypsy blouses, ample ruffled and pleated frills for the most exuberant flamenco gals — all of it done up with lots of embellishments: traditional passementerie, black lace and Moorish-jewel decorations. Even those Catholic missionaries got a nod or two, with crucifix motifs and Sacred Heart emblems, the latter used sparingly on a simple LBD. (The designer noted postshow that he collects rosaries.) Fortunately, Tisci avoided the pitfall of allowing his theme to get out of hand (except for those glossy leggings and droopy gauchos) and delivered the kind of strong, focused collection everyone has been waiting for.
Valentino: Successor debut collections have become as common in fashion as pre-this and pre-that. On Thursday, it was Alessandra Facchinetti's turn, again, to show her first major work for an iconic house. With Giancarlo Giammetti sitting in the celebrity section, along with Winona Ryder and Rebecca Romijn, Facchinetti presented a fall Valentino show that on many levels worked well. It introduced an aura of modernity that updated the house image without trampling on it; for example, the hair and makeup were taken down a notch or 12, the run of show was less formal than with Valentino himself at the helm (no need to show every imaginable suit) — and many of the clothes swung younger than before without looking ridiculous. There were lovely coats and dresses, and Facchinetti clearly made an effort to incorporate some signature Valentino moves: a crisp white Sixties-ish coat; a flash of red in a siren gown. This means that, come fall, current customers, and younger types, too, should they happen by, will be able to walk into a Valentino boutique and find something to wear.On the down side, the designer's a-little-of-this/a-little-of-that approach, heightened by the absence of a statement shoe, played more like a parade of random ladylike clothes than a powerful, cohesive collection. Despite a couple of recurring motifs — ribbon-swirl rosettes; pleat-front egg skirts that flatter no one — Facchinetti failed to offer a clear message for the season, let alone even a glimmer of her long-term vision. Which may mean she's yet to develop one, which is understandable. The first season for any designer new to an established house is typically transitional. But the clock is ticking.
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)
Discovery is collaborating with British pop artist @philipcolbert on a new line of clothing and accessories called Discovery Shark. The collection, which will launch next summer for Shark Week’s 30th anniversary, features a whimsical line of women’s and men’s bomber jackets, sweatshirts, bags and more. #wwdfashion
“I’m always a big champion of a female rapper, and I’m glad to see a new voice that feels unique and authentic that’s coming up, and I think we’re going to see more great things from her,” said @itsjeremyscott about @iamcardib, who performed at @moschino’s Art Basel Miami Beach party last night. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
@janellemonae’s “What’s Your Frequency?” room in @refinery29's #29Rooms made its debut this week at the opening of the Los Angeles art exhibit. “It’s about the ongoing conversation around mass surveillance, the weaponization of technology and cultural uniformity. My space was created so that we can come together and talk about the complexities of our humanity,” said Monáe. #wwdeye (📷: @bucknerphoto)
@pantone announced their Color of the Year 2018: Ultra Violet. Nearly 20 months after the musician Prince’s death, fashion is having a purple moment. Varying shades of purple appeared on spring or fall runways, from @christopherkane to @calvinklein. @gucci’s Alessandro Michele bathed his fall runway in ultra violet-colored light at one point. Pantone 18-3838 is meant to “push the boundaries of what inspires us to look upward and outward to the future.” #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)