Riccardo Tisci worked Latin American references into his collection for Givenchy, while Alessandra Facchinetti went for a youthful update on the ladylike house classics at Valentino.
Givenchy: Riccardo Tisci's show invitation featured a great big dragonfly — a clue, perhaps? The symbolic interpretations are endless, but there's an old wives' tale that dragonflies indicate good news. Here, it was most apt. Fall proved to be a major step forward for the designer, commercially viable and — dare we say it — practically pretension-free. Tisci tossed aside the cerebral stuff and opted for an inspiration with far more feeling: Latin American elegance and sensualidad, inspired by his trips to the area over the past few years.
Tisci's Hispanic takes glanced back — way back — to old-world conquistador style. He tipped his sombrero to Cortés and company with the kickoff looks — models draped in miles and piles of gold-chain bounty. Then the olé references, set to catchy Brazilian favela beats, came fast and furious — toreador-style jackets with rounded shoulders, sexy off-the-shoulder gypsy blouses, ample ruffled and pleated frills for the most exuberant flamenco gals — all of it done up with lots of embellishments: traditional passementerie, black lace and Moorish-jewel decorations. Even those Catholic missionaries got a nod or two, with crucifix motifs and Sacred Heart emblems, the latter used sparingly on a simple LBD. (The designer noted postshow that he collects rosaries.) Fortunately, Tisci avoided the pitfall of allowing his theme to get out of hand (except for those glossy leggings and droopy gauchos) and delivered the kind of strong, focused collection everyone has been waiting for.
Valentino: Successor debut collections have become as common in fashion as pre-this and pre-that. On Thursday, it was Alessandra Facchinetti's turn, again, to show her first major work for an iconic house. With Giancarlo Giammetti sitting in the celebrity section, along with Winona Ryder and Rebecca Romijn, Facchinetti presented a fall Valentino show that on many levels worked well. It introduced an aura of modernity that updated the house image without trampling on it; for example, the hair and makeup were taken down a notch or 12, the run of show was less formal than with Valentino himself at the helm (no need to show every imaginable suit) — and many of the clothes swung younger than before without looking ridiculous. There were lovely coats and dresses, and Facchinetti clearly made an effort to incorporate some signature Valentino moves: a crisp white Sixties-ish coat; a flash of red in a siren gown. This means that, come fall, current customers, and younger types, too, should they happen by, will be able to walk into a Valentino boutique and find something to wear.On the down side, the designer's a-little-of-this/a-little-of-that approach, heightened by the absence of a statement shoe, played more like a parade of random ladylike clothes than a powerful, cohesive collection. Despite a couple of recurring motifs — ribbon-swirl rosettes; pleat-front egg skirts that flatter no one — Facchinetti failed to offer a clear message for the season, let alone even a glimmer of her long-term vision. Which may mean she's yet to develop one, which is understandable. The first season for any designer new to an established house is typically transitional. But the clock is ticking.
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye
Did you know: @carlychaikin of "Mr. Robot" has been painting for about a decade? The actress, who plays Darlene on the show, is a self-taught artist who lists Salvador Dalí and Chuck Close as some of her idols. Chaikin told WWD that painting is a form of meditation for her — A much-needed one given the intensity of "Mr. Robot." See a piece Chaikin is working on at WWD.com (📷: @jilliansollazzo) #wwdeye