MILAN — Italian apparel brand Cruciani said Tuesday that it tapped Roberto Menichetti as creative director, confirming reports in these columns in December.
“We are friends and he is a star — a genius, enormously talented,” Luca Caprai, Cruciani founder and chief executive officer,said of Menichetti, who has had stints at Burberry Prorsum and Celine as well as his own short-lived collection. “Cruciani is a high-quality brand that needed Menichetti to fully express itself and to bloom.” Menichetti will be in charge of Cruciani’s men’s, women’s and accessories collections in a “very, very long-term project,” said Caprai. Menichetti’s first collection for Cruciani is being showcased at Pitti Uomo in Florence.
“These are only the initial steps,” said Caprai, adding Cruciani’s first women’s collection designed by Menichetti will be presented during Milan Fashion Week next month.
Caprai has been steadily expanding Cruciani’s product offer into a lifestyle collection. The company, known for cashmere sweaters, is based in Trevi, Italy, not far from Menichetti’s family-owned apparel firm in the medieval town of Gubbio.
Caprai described the new Cruciani collection as “dynamic and essential, modern and classy.” The executive pointed to standout jackets made with deer hides that have been vacuum-packed, a treatment that makes them elastic and waterproof; stretch cashmere jackets; knits with inlaid work that, Caprai said, “take five days to make.” Menichetti peppers the collection with geometric patterns, antique Tuscan and Umbrian coat of arms, but also futuristic touches. Hues revolve around powdery blue, green and red, which hark back to 15th century artist Giotto and his palettes.
Italy, Japan, Asia, Spain and Russia are the brand’s main markets. Available at 250 points of sale worldwide, Cruciani counts stores in Tokyo, Milan, and at the high-end spa Terme di Saturnia in Tuscany.
Despite the economy, Caprai said one of his main goals is to expand in the U.S., where Cruciani is available at Barneys New York and Wilkes Bashford. To this end, the company is offering a favorable exchange rate to American retailers at 1.2 euros to the dollar, compared with the current rate of 1.33 euros. “I see this as an investment,” said Caprai. “We have a unique product and I believe that we can grow everywhere.”
In 2008, the company registered sales of 20 million euros, or $29.4 million at average exchange rates, in line with the previous year. Men’s wear accounts for 55 percent of sales and women’s wear makes up the rest, but Caprai said he expects these proportions to be reversed with the fall collections.
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion
@longchamp, which marks its 70th anniversary this year, just opened its biggest U.S. store on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue. On the lower level there’s a floor-to-ceiling display of the brand’s iconic Le Pliage bag – in all of its different colors, shapes and sizes. Customers can also have their product personalized in-store by imprinting names, initials or emblems. #wwdfashion (📷: @ericmtownsend)
“Whenever I’m in that place of sound and music, I don’t have fear or nervousness…This album has a lot of themes of courage and boldness and I want to be the soundtrack for people’s lives. I’ll be so happy if [my songs] evoke strength in people, which I know music has done for me,” says @kimbramusic of her newest album “Primal Heart.” The New Zealand-born singer sat down with WWD to talk about her music, newest tour and connecting with hear fans — read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
Luxury handbag resale company @rebagofficial is planning to sell a rare collectible for $70,000: the @hermes White Crocodile Himalayan Birkin. The exclusive Birkin sold for about $100,000 in 2008, when @davidbeckham bought one for his wife @victoriabeckham to add to her collection. Read more about the rare Birkin on WWD.com #wwdaccessories
With her costume pearl necklace and what-you-see-is-what-you-get style, Barbara Bush, who died Tuesday at age 92, was a straight-shooter from start to finish.
Born Barbara Pierce in New York City, Bush served as the 37th first lady, as well as the country’s second lady from 1981 to 1989. In addition to being part of the longest presidential marriage — 73 years — Bush also had the unlikely distinction of having one son, George W., become the 43rd president and another son, Jeb, run unsuccessfully in 2016. Having served as second lady during the Reagan administration’s two terms and lived all over the world during her own husband’s ascending political career, Barbara Bush made it clear that literacy — not fashion — was her priority. Read more from Rosemary Feitelberg’s obituary on the late First Lady in WWD.com, link in bio. #barbarabush #wwdnews
Western and ’90s trends have influenced denim for fall 2018. Think raw, dark and coated jeans mixed with bold prints and tough leather. #trendtuesdays #wwdfashion (Styled by @thealexbadia;📷: @ryanplett)