When Marchesa cofounders Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig chose Marchesa Luisa Casati, a legend of fashion flamboyancy, as their muse and namesake eight years ago, they made plain their plans to dress women for their fanciest moments, most of them occurring after 5 o’clock (or roughly 2 p.m. PST, when the major red carpets open during awards season). At this point, Marchesa’s gowns are as affiliated with the Hollywood award circuit as Ryan Seacrest. Then there’s also Marchesa’s bridal collection, as well as Notte, their cocktail dress line.
But because even the most fabulous lives need clothes by day, for fall Chapman and Craig are launching Marchesa Voyage, a contemporary collection done in partnership with LF USA. “Something Keren and I had always wanted to do was more of a loungewear deal — the Marchesa in her palazzo,” said Chapman, during a preview of Voyage. Incidentally, Chapman and Craig are each pregnant with a second child — perhaps that influenced Voyage’s “grab and go” sensibility, as Craig called it. “It’s for a global-minded woman,” she said, “whether she is traveling the globe or whether she is just staying at home.”
Mood boards on one wall of the Marchesa studio in the Starrett-Lehigh Building were covered in images that channeled the bohemian excess of Talitha Getty. The clothes hanging on racks distilled that glamorous gypsy sensibility into a look that is suited to, yet will stand out in, the current contemporary climate. There’s an eclectic lady-of-leisure angle to the collection, which is big on original prints that appear on languid shirts, skirts and genie pants. Perhaps unsurprisingly, Voyage’s aesthetic was conceived by Chapman, who, as Harvey Weinstein’s wife, lives some version of a fairy tale — a recent Vogue feature on her was titled “Magic Kingdom.” While vacationing, she found herself fiddling with her own collection of printed scarves, tying them up in different ways that inspired various Voyage styles. There are also furs, embellished denim and pieces featuring extensive embroidery done in India. The collection, which wholesales between $100 and $400, is produced in Asia. Nothing is plain or basic, down to the 45-style shoe lineup, which includes over-the-knee wedge boots and sandals and pumps jazzed up with bohemian embroideries. “We felt like we needed it to have a personality,” said Chapman. “There would have to be a reason for someone to buy it.” The cofounders see Voyage competing with 3.1 Phillip Lim and Alexander Wang. “Obviously we’re a different aesthetic,” said Craig. “But that’s where we see it sitting.”
Edward Chapman, Marchesa’s ceo and Georgina’s brother, started talks with LF USA a couple of years ago. “The contemporary space obviously has a lot of potential, especially if you’re looking to be a lifestyle brand,” he said. “There’s an opportunity to build a sizable business.” Retail partners have yet to see the line, but Edward said ideally Voyage will launch in 250 doors, department stores and specialty stores internationally.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)