When Marchesa cofounders Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig chose Marchesa Luisa Casati, a legend of fashion flamboyancy, as their muse and namesake eight years ago, they made plain their plans to dress women for their fanciest moments, most of them occurring after 5 o’clock (or roughly 2 p.m. PST, when the major red carpets open during awards season). At this point, Marchesa’s gowns are as affiliated with the Hollywood award circuit as Ryan Seacrest. Then there’s also Marchesa’s bridal collection, as well as Notte, their cocktail dress line.
But because even the most fabulous lives need clothes by day, for fall Chapman and Craig are launching Marchesa Voyage, a contemporary collection done in partnership with LF USA. “Something Keren and I had always wanted to do was more of a loungewear deal — the Marchesa in her palazzo,” said Chapman, during a preview of Voyage. Incidentally, Chapman and Craig are each pregnant with a second child — perhaps that influenced Voyage’s “grab and go” sensibility, as Craig called it. “It’s for a global-minded woman,” she said, “whether she is traveling the globe or whether she is just staying at home.”
Mood boards on one wall of the Marchesa studio in the Starrett-Lehigh Building were covered in images that channeled the bohemian excess of Talitha Getty. The clothes hanging on racks distilled that glamorous gypsy sensibility into a look that is suited to, yet will stand out in, the current contemporary climate. There’s an eclectic lady-of-leisure angle to the collection, which is big on original prints that appear on languid shirts, skirts and genie pants. Perhaps unsurprisingly, Voyage’s aesthetic was conceived by Chapman, who, as Harvey Weinstein’s wife, lives some version of a fairy tale — a recent Vogue feature on her was titled “Magic Kingdom.” While vacationing, she found herself fiddling with her own collection of printed scarves, tying them up in different ways that inspired various Voyage styles. There are also furs, embellished denim and pieces featuring extensive embroidery done in India. The collection, which wholesales between $100 and $400, is produced in Asia. Nothing is plain or basic, down to the 45-style shoe lineup, which includes over-the-knee wedge boots and sandals and pumps jazzed up with bohemian embroideries. “We felt like we needed it to have a personality,” said Chapman. “There would have to be a reason for someone to buy it.” The cofounders see Voyage competing with 3.1 Phillip Lim and Alexander Wang. “Obviously we’re a different aesthetic,” said Craig. “But that’s where we see it sitting.”
Edward Chapman, Marchesa’s ceo and Georgina’s brother, started talks with LF USA a couple of years ago. “The contemporary space obviously has a lot of potential, especially if you’re looking to be a lifestyle brand,” he said. “There’s an opportunity to build a sizable business.” Retail partners have yet to see the line, but Edward said ideally Voyage will launch in 250 doors, department stores and specialty stores internationally.
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion
@longchamp, which marks its 70th anniversary this year, just opened its biggest U.S. store on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue. On the lower level there’s a floor-to-ceiling display of the brand’s iconic Le Pliage bag – in all of its different colors, shapes and sizes. Customers can also have their product personalized in-store by imprinting names, initials or emblems. #wwdfashion (📷: @ericmtownsend)
“Whenever I’m in that place of sound and music, I don’t have fear or nervousness…This album has a lot of themes of courage and boldness and I want to be the soundtrack for people’s lives. I’ll be so happy if [my songs] evoke strength in people, which I know music has done for me,” says @kimbramusic of her newest album “Primal Heart.” The New Zealand-born singer sat down with WWD to talk about her music, newest tour and connecting with hear fans — read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
Luxury handbag resale company @rebagofficial is planning to sell a rare collectible for $70,000: the @hermes White Crocodile Himalayan Birkin. The exclusive Birkin sold for about $100,000 in 2008, when @davidbeckham bought one for his wife @victoriabeckham to add to her collection. Read more about the rare Birkin on WWD.com #wwdaccessories
With her costume pearl necklace and what-you-see-is-what-you-get style, Barbara Bush, who died Tuesday at age 92, was a straight-shooter from start to finish.
Born Barbara Pierce in New York City, Bush served as the 37th first lady, as well as the country’s second lady from 1981 to 1989. In addition to being part of the longest presidential marriage — 73 years — Bush also had the unlikely distinction of having one son, George W., become the 43rd president and another son, Jeb, run unsuccessfully in 2016. Having served as second lady during the Reagan administration’s two terms and lived all over the world during her own husband’s ascending political career, Barbara Bush made it clear that literacy — not fashion — was her priority. Read more from Rosemary Feitelberg’s obituary on the late First Lady in WWD.com, link in bio. #barbarabush #wwdnews
Western and ’90s trends have influenced denim for fall 2018. Think raw, dark and coated jeans mixed with bold prints and tough leather. #trendtuesdays #wwdfashion (Styled by @thealexbadia;📷: @ryanplett)