By  on September 2, 2010

Designer Keanan Duffty is dusting off his eponymous label and reentering the market with a contemporary collection for spring.

He might attempt a “pop-up fashion show” during New York Fashion Week. “I’m looking to do a guerrilla presentation that may involve some illegality, but nothing dangerous,” Duffty said.

Duffty’s most recent projects were a book called “Rebel Rebel: Anti Style,” and a David Bowie-inspired, limited edition collection for Target. He also designs Ben Sherman tailored clothing.

This endeavor marks a return to higher-end fashion for the British-born, New York-based designer. The label he founded in 1999 was carried in 70 stores, including Bergdorf Goodman, Fred Segal, Lane Crawford and Harvey Nichols. He drew inspiration from rock ’n’ roll, youth subcultures and British iconography and says he counted many musicians, such as Aerosmith, Mick Jagger, Iggy Pop and Smashing Pumpkins, among his fans. He furloughed the business when he got the Target collaboration, which ended last year.

This time, the Keanan Duffty collection will be less expensive, less embellished, and made in China, rather than the U.S.

“I want to keep it affordable. People have gotten used to paying a lot less for fashion,” Duffty said.

It is launching with 50 pieces, all men’s, including woven shirts, knits, outerwear, skinny jeans, jodhpurs, vests, trenchcoats and band jackets. “The look is early Spandau Ballet, Blitz Club, London 1979,” he said. The fabrics include cotton-metal blends and linens “that have loads of wrinkle,” and a small amount of leather. “The idea is to do something trans-seasonal or nonseason specific.”

Duffty hopes to strike up a partnership with a premium department store or specialty chain, he said.

Retail prices will be around $100 for shirts, $85 for knits, $120 for pants and $149 to $169 for outerwear.

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