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DVF Retrospective Set for Moscow

Original works by Andy Warhol and Francesco Clemente will be assembled in Moscow later this month for Diane von Furstenberg’s first major retrospective.

PARIS — Original works by Andy Warhol, Francesco Clemente and Horst — along with personal artifacts and some 50 dresses — will be assembled in Moscow later this month for Diane von Furstenberg’s first major retrospective.

This story first appeared in the October 12, 2009 issue of WWD.  Subscribe Today.

“You basically travel through my life in 35 years,” said the designer, who has titled the exhibition “Journey of a Dress.” Curated by Vogue’s André Leon Talley, it is slated to run through Nov. 21 at the Manezh exhibition hall near Red Square.

The likes of Naomi Campbell, Natalia Vodianova, François-Marie Banier and Barry Diller are expected to attend an opening-night reception Oct. 30, with a dinner to follow at the Hotel Metropol.

Von Furstenberg said it was Vodianova, who hails from Russia, who encouraged her to mount the event, steering the designer toward a personal, storytelling exhibition rather than a standard fashion show. “She said, ‘You know, people are fascinated by that,’” von Furstenberg related.

Spread across 6,000 square feet, the exhibition will group von Furstenberg’s fashions thematically rather than chronologically. Working titles for the segments include “American Dream,” “Studio 54,” “Luxe” and “Empowerment,” echoing stages in the designer’s life. Von Furstenberg was emphatic about mixing up her fashion decades in Moscow. “It’s going to be old and new, vintage and now,” she said.

Interspersed with the clothes will be portraits of von Furstenberg by artists such as Andy Warhol, Ann Duong and Helmut Newton, along with magazine tear sheets, letters from the likes of Diana Vreeland and sketches by Karl Lagerfeld and Antonio Lopez.

Von Furstenberg characterized the retrospective as a homecoming of sorts, as her father was born in Russia, immigrating to Belgium in 1929. “Now I’m coming back on the Red Square,” she said. “It’s a symbolic journey for me because I’m a little bit Russian.”

Von Furstenberg operates two freestanding boutiques in Moscow in partnership with Aizel Trudel.