The four-day event, which ended Saturday, saw a packed city, with taxis scarce and subways jammed: not Berlin’s normal scene. And the calendar was chock-full, not only because Bread & Butter, Premium and four other trade fairs were running concurrently, but owing to scores of designers and fashion brands that had chosen the German capital as their showplace of choice for spring 2010.
IMG, organizers of the MBFWB runway shows, said the shows in the tents and off-site attracted more than 22,000 people, up from 18,000 in January. Now in its fifth season, MBFWB has become a meeting place for major German fashion editors and editors in chief. International attendance was up, as well.
That being said, Berlin remains a mixed bag from a fashion point of view, and this season especially, it was the newcomers and lesser-known labels rather than the more established brands that generated the most attention.
Lala Berlin, designed by Leyla Piedaysesh, created a lot of buzz with her blend of sophisticated glamour with a rough, hard-core edge. Having started out in 2004 knitting all her own accessories, Piedaysesh stuck to her roots with oversize chunky sweaters and floating floor- length cardigans. By combining the knits with slinky silk evening dresses, she created her most glamorous collection to date.
But if Lala Berlin has gone glam, the urban edge is still very much there, with leather cummerbunds, metallic patches and frayed hems adding a raw touch to some sophisticated pieces. A silk, full-length evening dress was made funky with zips hanging down the back, while a pretty cotton shift dress got a contemporary twist with frayed seams and gold plates. The rough-meets-smooth theme was illustrated by feminine printed silks decorated with workmanlike nuts, bolts and cogs.
While last January’s belts-and-bags-only Kaviar Gauche runway show left many in the audience wanting more from designers Johanna Kühl and Alexandra Fischer-Roehler, this spring’s debut of the label’s Bridal Couture collection left far more wishing it was time to tie the knot — especially those who’ve left their Cinderella fantasies behind.
This young but sophisticatedBerlin-based duo came up with myriad cool bride options: short frocks tied at the shoulder with a floor-length bow or covered all over with shimmy shake fringe; laser-cut leather pants paired with a silk organza shirt hitched up and tied; jumpsuits and pants ensembles, and even a little coat dress, all accessorized with multistrap- and chain-accented sandals. And all capable of being worn again, long after the honeymoon is over.
Mongrels in Common made its MBFWB debut with an appetizing collection using tanned salmon skins. All the leather that appeared either as triangular accents or full skin pants, bras, or little cropped jackets is derived from bio-salmon skins tanned without the use of chemicals under the Nanai trademark.
A favorite with young professional women, who nonetheless want a break from typical 9-to-5 gear, Mongrels in Common’s design team of Christine Pluess and Livia Ximénez-Carillo specializes in disparate, mongrelized mixes. For spring, they confronted softness with structure. Shaped bustier dresses topped roomy, cotton blouses or unexpectedly billowed at the back, as did a simple lavender shirt tucked into skinny, salmon skin pants. Their signature slip-on shirtdress appeared in taupe silk, subtly darted and accented with metallic salmon skin, while an easy black silk shift took shape, bloused and bubbled in front with a bold, golden industrial zipper running the full length in the back.
Launched in 2005, Penkov, another MBFWB newcomer based here, aimed to fuse jewelry and clothing, hitting the mark with draped chains, though the metallic leather appliqués weren’t always on target. Designer Bernadett Penkov may have been inspired by the film “Blade Runner” for spring, but there were touches of Maria and Metropolis to be found in her elegant dresses, pants and jackets in mostly off-white, apricot and light gray silk crepe, twill and chiffon.
The blend of a feminine Forties look with a futuristic bent was clear in a taupe jacket with copper mesh sleeve details, and a sculpted bustier dress with a sheer skirt. Penkov’s subtle superwomen carry the weight of the world on their delicately strong shoulders, sometimes with visible shoulder pads.
German-born and New York based designer Kai Kühne, who showed in Berlin for the second time, went razor sharp with intricate, geometric cuts in black or metallic-toned silk. Among the highlights: widow-peaked short shorts, the legs coming to an unexpected point in the front and worn with tailored sleeveless jackets with “upholstered” shoulders or a simpler leather vest; all manner of little black dresses featuring geometric seaming or cutouts and a skin-tight metallic origami sheath and its sister high-waisted pencil skirt, paired with a tiny black jersey top. While one needs to take a close look to figure out Kühne’s constructions, his bold, megabead jewelry was easily grasped — and coveted — by all.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty