Tried-and-true designers like Oscar de la Renta and Diane von Furstenberg have their loyal followings, but a wave of lesser-known names will be cementing their presences in the months ahead.
Sophie Theallet, this year’s winner of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award, should draw some attention as she tries to make the most of her $200,000 cash prize and yearlong mentorship. The Brooklyn, N.Y.-based designer is adding knitwear to her boho-luxe label and may collaborate with Manolo Blahnik for footwear to be sold in stores. In February, he will once again provide the shoes for her runway show at the Altman Building.
Also count on CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists like Alabama Chanin’s Natalie Chanin, Wayne’s Wayne Lee and Ohne Titel’s Flora Gill and Alexa Adams to try to parlay their recognition into stronger sales. After being nominated, Ohne Titel received some last-minute spring orders from stores and inquiries for fall, according to partner Stephen Courter. As is the case with some other up-and-comers, the designers are getting their names out there in nontraditional ways. The designers will unveil a photography-related project this spring, but he declined to reveal details.
Industry observers will be keeping tabs on ready-to-wear designer Jeffrey Monteiro, who is said to be in the running to take the lead design job at Bill Blass to relaunch a women’s collection there. This spring, Monteiro will introduce footwear inspired by his clothing collection.
Prabal Gurung, who honed his chic and sophisticated design skills at Bill Blass and Cynthia Rowley, has quickly attracted his share of fans, including celebrities such as Demi Moore, Leighton Meester and Oprah Winfrey. Gurung is expected to wrap up plans for a new collaboration or two in the next few months.
With a burgeoning dress business at stores such as Bergdorf Goodman, Harrods, Joyce and Corso Como Milan, Victoria Beckham will be drawing upon that momentum by relaunching her denim and sunglasses businesses. Her brand name should get a further lift in January when she appears twice as a guest judge on “American Idol.” Like Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen, who design The Row and Elizabeth & James clothing labels, Beckham is among the few celebrity designers holding their own on the fashion front as opposed to just trading off their stardom.
Though considerably lower-profile, there is a tier of up-and-coming designers who are less inclined to promote themselves, such as Jean Yu, Koi Suwannagate and Costello Tagliapietra’s Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra. The latter pair work side-by-side in their Carroll Gardens apartment, sewing such intricacies as bias-cut organza seams in dresses for Barneys New York and private clients. They are hopeful the recession will make shoppers more inclined to appreciate their handwork and invest in their pieces, which they say can be worn for years, as opposed to the highly stylized options that others create. “At some point, you have to ask, ‘Do you really want to look like a science experiment?’” Costello said.
Yu plans to start posting online images of the interior of her dresses as well as the exteriors. “By showing the inside of the garments they can be seen as [art] objects. That is wholly missed by using a picture of a pretty girl wearing your clothes.”
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion