With even wealthy consumers skittish about spending during the financial crisis, Europe’s luxury players are fast becoming expert event planners.
Leveraging their store networks and customer databases, brands are plotting more frequent and varied in-store efforts to boost traffic and coax open pocketbooks.
Tactics range from standard trunk shows and giveaways to temporary stores and limited edition products to break through what executives describe as a psychological barrier to discretionary spending.
“There are still people with money, but we have to talk to them differently,” said Valérie Hermann, chief executive officer at Yves Saint Laurent. “It’s about having a relationship with them directly. It’s not only sending them catalogues.”
“Our philosophy is if you are in the true luxury business, the way to talk to customers is one-to-one,” agreed Patrick Thomas, ceo of Hermès International. “This year we are going to refocus our activity in our stores in order to bring more customers in and devote attention to them. We’ve always done this, but we’re trying to intensify it.”
Thomas estimated there is at least one event per day in a Hermès store somewhere in the world. These include exhibitions, cocktail parties and product demonstrations around specific products, including Hermès silk scarves and how to wear them.
“The real focus for stores and for retail right now is to get traffic that’s not associated with sales,” said industry consultant Robert Burke of New York-based Robert Burke & Associates. “People are going to get creative.”
Hermann said her focus is on “small, humble and efficient” events with a focus on individuality in terms of services and special products “you shouldn’t miss.”
For example, next month at Barneys New York, YSL will unveil a “new vintage” collection of iconic styles made of fabrics “recycled” from its inventories. And in June, in tandem with YSL parent PPR’s release of the documentary film “Home” on World Environment Day June 5, the French house plans to create special products and give away free copies of the Yann Arthus-Bertrand movie on DVD.
Ferragamo ceo Michele Norsa said six months ago he decided to shift a portion of marketing investments to in-store events to generate consumer interest, especially in this economic phase.
“I think one must be creative when it comes to attracting consumers who are inundated with invites and are used to wine-and-cheese cocktails, using the brain more than the wallet,” he said. “It’s important to tie oneself to cultural events, to charities, to link the brand to celebrities or to important events such as [Milan’s] Salone del Mobile,” which takes place later this month.
Echoing other observers, Hermès’ Thomas noted its customer-focused initiatives are decentralized, and managers are pressed to find “new ways of talking about the product, the quality and the know-how” to assorted local markets.
Hermès recently hosted an exhibition of quirky photos by Austrian artist Erwin Wurm in its Paris flagship on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré “and it brought in quite a few people,” Thomas said.
The images, which feature Hermès men’s wear and accessories, are now making a tour of Hermès stores in the Chinese cities of Dalian, Shanghai and Beijing.
Thomas also said Hermès would open three or four temporary stores this year — including a seasonal one in East Hampton, N.Y. — as another way to create an innovative shopping event.
YSL opened a “pop-up” boutique for its Edition Unisex collection in downtown Manhattan for a week last February, which attracted some 2,000 customers.
The brand just repeated the experiment in Hong Kong. “We not only generated turnover, but attracted new customers as well,” Hermann noted.
Joshua Schulman, ceo at Jimmy Choo, said he’s increasing “high-touch” store-based happenings, including charity events and styling workshops.
“We see these events as a way to get closer to the client, deliver great customer service and build a long-term relationship that will outlast the economic turbulence in the air,” he explained. “We have found this to be an effective strategy to reach out to established and new clients when traffic is down in many shopping destinations.”
Late last year, Choo invited its top 80 U.K. clients to co-founder Tamara Mellon’s private residence in London for a trunk show, makeovers and assorted pampering, leading to orders in excess of 50,000 British pounds, or about $71,500 at current exchange. Teams are also organizing pop-up concessions at Harvey Nichols stores in Birmingham, Leeds, Bristol and Manchester to duplicate the “Choo experience.”
In recent months in the U.S., Choo also partnered with the American Heart Association, Easter Seals and Ballet Florida to host shopping events for top clients and charity supporters.
“Nothing can replace the personal one-on-one touch between our teams in the stores and the clients,” Schulman stressed.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)