With even wealthy consumers skittish about spending during the financial crisis, Europe’s luxury players are fast becoming expert event planners. Leveraging their store networks and customer databases, brands are plotting more frequent and varied in-store efforts to boost traffic and coax open pocketbooks. Tactics range from standard trunk shows and giveaways to temporary stores and limited edition products to break through what executives describe as a psychological barrier to discretionary spending. “There are still people with money, but we have to talk to them differently,” said Valérie Hermann, chief executive officer at Yves Saint Laurent. “It’s about having a relationship with them directly. It’s not only sending them catalogues.” “Our philosophy is if you are in the true luxury business, the way to talk to customers is one-to-one,” agreed Patrick Thomas, ceo of Hermès International. “This year we are going to refocus our activity in our stores in order to bring more customers in and devote attention to them. We’ve always done this, but we’re trying to intensify it.” Thomas estimated there is at least one event per day in a Hermès store somewhere in the world. These include exhibitions, cocktail parties and product demonstrations around specific products, including Hermès silk scarves and how to wear them. “The real focus for stores and for retail right now is to get traffic that’s not associated with sales,” said industry consultant Robert Burke of New York-based Robert Burke & Associates. “People are going to get creative.” Hermann said her focus is on “small, humble and efficient” events with a focus on individuality in terms of services and special products “you shouldn’t miss.” For example, next month at Barneys New York, YSL will unveil a “new vintage” collection of iconic styles made of fabrics “recycled” from its inventories. And in June, in tandem with YSL parent PPR’s release of the documentary film “Home” on World Environment Day June 5, the French house plans to create special products and give away free copies of the Yann Arthus-Bertrand movie on DVD. Ferragamo ceo Michele Norsa said six months ago he decided to shift a portion of marketing investments to in-store events to generate consumer interest, especially in this economic phase. “I think one must be creative when it comes to attracting consumers who are inundated with invites and are used to wine-and-cheese cocktails, using the brain more than the wallet,” he said. “It’s important to tie oneself to cultural events, to charities, to link the brand to celebrities or to important events such as [Milan’s] Salone del Mobile,” which takes place later this month. Echoing other observers, Hermès’ Thomas noted its customer-focused initiatives are decentralized, and managers are pressed to find “new ways of talking about the product, the quality and the know-how” to assorted local markets.
Hermès recently hosted an exhibition of quirky photos by Austrian artist Erwin Wurm in its Paris flagship on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré “and it brought in quite a few people,” Thomas said. The images, which feature Hermès men’s wear and accessories, are now making a tour of Hermès stores in the Chinese cities of Dalian, Shanghai and Beijing. Thomas also said Hermès would open three or four temporary stores this year — including a seasonal one in East Hampton, N.Y. — as another way to create an innovative shopping event. YSL opened a “pop-up” boutique for its Edition Unisex collection in downtown Manhattan for a week last February, which attracted some 2,000 customers. The brand just repeated the experiment in Hong Kong. “We not only generated turnover, but attracted new customers as well,” Hermann noted. Joshua Schulman, ceo at Jimmy Choo, said he’s increasing “high-touch” store-based happenings, including charity events and styling workshops. “We see these events as a way to get closer to the client, deliver great customer service and build a long-term relationship that will outlast the economic turbulence in the air,” he explained. “We have found this to be an effective strategy to reach out to established and new clients when traffic is down in many shopping destinations.” Late last year, Choo invited its top 80 U.K. clients to co-founder Tamara Mellon’s private residence in London for a trunk show, makeovers and assorted pampering, leading to orders in excess of 50,000 British pounds, or about $71,500 at current exchange. Teams are also organizing pop-up concessions at Harvey Nichols stores in Birmingham, Leeds, Bristol and Manchester to duplicate the “Choo experience.” In recent months in the U.S., Choo also partnered with the American Heart Association, Easter Seals and Ballet Florida to host shopping events for top clients and charity supporters. “Nothing can replace the personal one-on-one touch between our teams in the stores and the clients,” Schulman stressed.
“I design by visualization. I see things, and most of the time they’re not practical to actually make, and what I’ve found here, it’s like anything’s possible. This is the first time that I’ve made a sole unit in two months. That process usually would take six, so here’s a difference,” said @virgilabloh of the first sneaker sample he created for @louisvuitton, pictured here. Abloh spoke to WWD about his debut collection for Louis Vuitton, creating @kendalljenner’s #metgala outfit and redefining the heritage brand. Read the full story on WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @alfredo_piola)
The world’s largest producer of denim @iskodenim is sharing the strategy behind its product development process. Read our full interview with ISKO’s product development manager Baris Ozden on the company’s extensive research practices, upcoming denim trends and the latest material innovations on WWD.com. #iskodenim
“I genuinely fell in love with water, I fell in love with Fiji, I fell in love with the whole life that we lived for those few months,” says @mrsamclaflin of filming for his new movie “Adrift” with @shailenewoodley. The 31-year-old actor spoke with WWD about his upcoming projects, meeting Jamie Dornan and working with co-star Woodley. #wwdeye (📷: @jamstoker)
3 years ago, fans of the late singer Aaliyah started calling for a collaboration with @maccosmetics. With the strength of social media — including mock ups of products — 25,000 people signed a Change.org petition for a limited-edition collection, and MAC couldn’t ignore the buzz. Tomorrow, MAC will unveil MAC x Aaliyah, a tribute to the singer who passed away nearly 17 years ago. Head to our stories to preview the new collection, which was worked on by Aaliyah’s family and inspired directly by her makeup bag. #wwdbeauty
Artistic director @clarewaightkeller will be dedicating @givenchyofficial’s fall 2018 couture show in Paris on July 1 to house founder Hubert de Givenchy, who passed away in March at age 91. Givenchy said the collection would be “an homage to his iconic creations, technique, and personal lexicon” and a “celebration of his timeless elegance and grace.” Head to WWD.com to read more. #wwdfashion (📷: Delphine Achard)
La Double J made a name for itself with its vintage-inspired prints, but for resort, designer JJ Martin has ventured into new territory: enter rich jewel toned solids and decadent embellishment, in the form of appliqués, crystals and sequins. #wwdfashion #resort19 #ladoublej
This Just In: J. Crew Group has named Johanna Uurasjarvi as its chief design officer.
Uurasjarvi succeeds Somsack Sikhounmuong, who left the company last September. Tap the link in bio for the full report. #wwdnews
“She came into my hotel room and she was like, ‘I have Chanel and Christian Dior.’ She was like, ‘Chanel likes you.’ And I was like, ‘I’m going to start crying,’” breakout star Maddie Hasson tells WWD of her styling sessions Molly Dickson. “I really like classic, elegant things. I love the way Anna Wintour dresses.” Read more about Hasson’s role in @impulseseries on wwd.com. (📸: @jgreenery ) #wwdeye
@virgilabloh revealed he's working with Australian stylist and
Vogue Australia fashion director @christinecentenera for his debut @louisvuitton men's collection, which will be presented in Paris on June 21. Centenera met Abloh while both working with Kanye West, where she consulted on his all his runway collections since his debut spring 2012 women's wear show. Read the full story on WWD.com. #wwdfashion #wwdnews (📷: @asussmanphoto)