NEW YORK — Forget that the stock market fell 69 points on Thursday and that April comparable-store sales were down from March. There are luxury goods and colorful fashions in stores — and shoppers are gobbling them up.
Clothing and shoes were a bright spot in an otherwise tepid April, which was chilled by an early Easter as well as abnormally low temperatures in key markets. In fact, the apparel sector has reported dramatic growth — $20 billion on a year-over-year basis — so it isn’t surprising that comps flexed muscle at high-end department stores and specialty retailers.
For example, the Neiman Marcus Group continued its run with a 14 percent gain while Nordstrom posted a 10 percent increase. Saks Fifth Avenue Enterprises reported a 4.3 percent gain, which was lower than March due to a shift in the retailer’s marketing activity.
Consumer spending on apparel and fashion footwear jumped 7.3 percent to $326.9 billion in the first quarter of this year from $304.8 billion in the same period last year, according to the latest quarterly data from the Bureau of Economic Analysis, an agency of the U.S. Department of Commerce. Expenditures on the segment were up 11.6 percent compared with the first quarter of 2000.
While pent-up demand may help explain part of that increase, Richard Hastings, a credit economist with Bernard Sands, said it has more to do with the strength of the affluent consumer. “In this economy there’s a class of consumer now immune to inflation associated with higher grocery prices or higher gas prices,” said Hastings.
In keeping with trends, the high-end department store channel blazed its own trail during April, with most besting comp estimates for the month. Misfires from key moderate department store players, May Department Stores and Kohl’s in particular, weighed down the channel.
Cool spring weather in the Northeast, rising gas prices and anticipation of a rise in interest rates had an impact on overall results. The Goldman Sachs Retail Comparable-Store Sales index showed a 3.9 percent gain in April, compared with a 6.8 percent gain reported in March.
Still, of the 50 retailers tracked by WWD, 36 posted higher numbers. The specialty store segment took the lead, posting an average comp increase of 4.8 percent for the month, compared with a boost of 6.2 percent reported in March. Mass merchants recorded an average gain of 3.9 percent, down from an 8.2 percent gain in the previous month. Buoyed by its high-end cohorts, the department store channel posted a 1.7 percent gain, down from 8 percent.“Results were erratic,” Smith Barney analyst Deborah Weinswig said in a research report. “In our view, a strong product offering was a key differentiator this month with respect to sales performance. More specifically, retailers with differentiated merchandise (e.g., Federated, J.C. Penney and Neiman Marcus) outperformed those with weaker apparel statements.”
Kurt Barnard, consultant and founder of Barnard’s Retail Trends report, echoed this sentiment. “Color is back very much in the forefront,” said Barnard. “Fashions that catch the eye are really important; things that are a little unusual, a little out of the ordinary.”
The earlier Easter holiday, something most retailers and analysts believed would negatively impact results, also seemed to have little effect on the high-end retailer. According to the Nordstrom sales call, the earlier Easter holiday season “had no material impact.” Sales accelerated during the last two weeks of the month and full-priced selling remained strong, the retailer said.
Retailers in the specialty store channel continued to draw customers with colorful spring merchandise as well as new summer offerings.
Aeropostale’s 18.9 percent comp increase was driven by women’s polos, women’s capris, bags, swimwear and flip-flops, according to the company’s sales call. Men’s wear led the way with gains in the low 20s while women’s increased in the mid-teens.
It was a similar story for Pacific Sun, with men’s T-shirts and denim pants as the leading categories. Sneakers and sandal sales were up more than 20 percent.
As comps were released on Thursday, Wall Street wasn’t thinking about sneakers or sandals or same-store sales. The Street was speculating on rising interest rates and its impact on retail share prices. SG Cowen equity analyst Lauren Cooks Levitan offered an optimistic take in her research note.
“While it appears that rising interest rate fears are likely to continue to pressure [specialty retailers], we believe some valuation levels for high-quality retailers have retreated to a point where we are willing to look past potential interest rate pressure,” Levitan wrote. “Further, we note that we do not think increased interest rates will have a significant impact on demand for retailer's product — given a rise in interest rates would correspond with sustained improvements in the economy and improved consumer confidence.”Barnard agreed. As affluent consumers drive sales of luxury goods, he said specialty stores are gaining ground because of the improving economic outlook. “Consumer spending and retailing are a function of one four-letter word: jobs,” said Barnard. Jobs, more than interest rates or gasoline prices, have a greater impact on sales behavior, he said.
And he sees no reason for trends among high-end retailers to curb anytime soon. “This is part of a longer cyclical wave of buying,” said Hastings, who believes a fashion boom began in late 2002. “By late 2002 there was a move toward a more contemporary appearance,” said Hastings. At that time, he said, new fashions and new styles with unique colors came to the fore. This had a ripple affect, extending into other areas where the high-end retailers reigned.
“The social mood embraced a much prettier look, which fueled high demand for footwear, accessories and cosmetics,” said Hastings.
April Same-Store Sales
J.C. Penney (dept. stores)
Saks Dept. Store Group
Saks Fifth Ave. Enterprises
Sears Roebuck (U.S. stores)
Abercrombie & Fitch
American Eagle (U.S. stores)
Christopher & Banks
Gap (U.S. stores)
Goody’s Family Clothing
Target (discount stores)
Wal()Mart (discount stores)
Figures represent percent change of year-over-year same-store sales. SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS. PARENTHESES INDICATE DECLINES.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast