Origin myths, legacy stories, reverence for founding dates, forefathers and artifacts. It sounds like a trip to the American Museum of Natural History — or perhaps your local men’s boutique.
Driven by consumers that have developed a taste for iconic, classic apparel, heritage has become hip, turning the fashion truism — that everything old is new again — on its head. These days, everything new looks kind of old.
Experts cite multiple reasons for this current backward glance. Economic insecurity has fueled nostalgia for more stable eras. Marketing-saturated consumers are eager for products that feel authentic and evoke a simpler time. More general consumer trends for transparency favor brands with backstories. But whatever the forces, heritage — which only a few years ago was relegated to dry corporate time lines and dusty archives — is now front and center of many company strategies.
“You need a foundation to build any brand around,” said Frank Muytjens, men’s creative director for J. Crew, which has been featuring third-party heritage brands such as Red Wing boots and Thomas Mason shirts in its assortment. “[Heritage] makes a brand more believable and gives it a heart and soul. Things become better with age, and men respond to that.”
The trend was originally a fascination of designer and progressive lines, such as Woolrich Woolen Mills, which launched in 2006 as a high-end, modern take on Woolrich’s time-lost, woolly aesthetic. It joined brands with an old-world sensibility and names to match, such as Rogues Gallery and Gilded Age. Fashion companies then started to revive defunct labels from the Eighties and earlier, including Penfield, B.D. Baggies and Maui & Sons. At the same time, venerable brands with graying customer bases — such as Gitman Bros., Schott, Baracuta and Stetson — began to get interest from men’s magazines and a younger, hipper customer.
The trend seems to have gone mass this year. Market researcher Kantar Retail named storytelling one of its top 10 retail trends for 2010. “If you’re trying to get consumers to open their wallets for discretionary items, there needs to be a strong message,” said Kelly Tackett, senior analyst for Kantar. “One of the ways to do that is playing toward the brand’s core equities as being authentic or a heritage brand.”
By now, heritage has become a ubiquitous message for any brand with a history. Many companies are using their heritages quite literally by creating capsule collections that make use of archival designs. These new lines, often named for the brands’ founding years, read like answers to a history test: There’s Williamson-Dickie Manufacturing’s capsule collection, Dickies 1922; Rockport’s line of footwear aimed at younger men, Rockport est. 1971, and Hamilton 1883, the custom shirtmakers’ vintage ready-to-wear line. Lands’ End unveiled a range of slimmer-fitting apparel in November called Lands’ End Canvas 1963; Coach has used its founding year of 1941 as a pattern on bags this season, and Victorinox’s runway collection is called 1909.
All this demand for historical parade has forced many companies to get serious about their own lineages. HMX Group undertook a large archiving project when it was purchased out of bankruptcy last summer. Much of the brand’s imagery and samples had been languishing in a company factory. Now, some of that imagery is being repurposed for the company’s rebranding.
Keds, which just launched a Web site dedicated to its heritage, called theoriginalsneaker.com, has stepped up efforts to acquire vintage Keds pieces at auction. “I really think that the archivist is a new job category in the fashion industry,” said Keds president Kristin Kohler Burrows, only half-jokingly. “We almost need a full-time person doing it.”
Other companies are treating retail space like a museum. Levi’s recently revamped London flagship is displaying a pair of 201 jeans dating from the Twenties. That store also offers faithful reproductions of historic Levi’s models for sale.
There’s a reason the companies flexing their heritages tend to skew to younger consumers. According to marketing experts, it’s these shoppers that are particularly drawn to a brand’s legacy. “Consumers 16 to 29 years old are obsessed with being true to themselves, and are attracted by passion, originality, integrity and authenticity. Heritage is a signifier of those things,” said Ian Pierpoint, chief executive officer of Sound Research, a research agency that focuses on youth and young adults and has studied consumers for Pepsi and Axe, as well as apparel companies.
These Millennials, as the demographic is known, are cultural junkies, according to Pierpoint. They use the unprecedented level of vintage footage online to surf through the past, mining the recesses of film, television, music and commercials — which all confirm a general belief that life (and merchandise) in the generations that preceded their own were better. “Why are they obsessed with the past? Because they think now is s--t,” Pierpoint explained. “They want to hearken back to times when things were simpler and America was respected. They are paralyzed by the amount of information in the world and the uncertainty of the future. So they look back instead. Of course, they forget that people used to die of measles.”
This general trend is fanned by a group of consumers for whom the past is an obsession, products with provenance are relished and vintage style lionized. Call them the archivisti. These guys troll flea markets and eBay for vinyl and weathered L.L. Bean duck boots. Their apartments are lined with first-edition style books, Steve McQueen movies, taxidermy and thrift-store denim. They not only know who designs their favorite brands, but where those brands manufacture. They can tie bow ties.
Like any niche market, the archivisti also have their own bullhorns. Culture-style blog AContinuousLean.com is a leading curator of what one might call the heritage aesthetic. Founded in late 2007 by publicist Michael Williams, the site, which draws some 300,000 unique visitors a month, is a record of a masculine style that is deeply rooted in the past. A preview of a photography book on vintage roadside diners and gas stations precedes a slide show of muted estate-sale Kodacromes of men fishing, a eulogy to rust-belt victim Youngstown, Ohio, and a shout-out to old-school Land Cruisers. First looks at apparel brands, like J. Crew’s fall 2010 collection, are mixed in.
“For a long time, we invested in this throwaway culture where everything was fast and new and you bought something for a season. There is push back to that now. People, and brands, too, are realizing there is value in heritage and in this classic stuff,” said Williams, who spoke by phone en route to Brimfield, the well-known New England antique show. “My style is this historical, archival, nostalgic point of view. A lot of people that come to the site share that ideal.”
The Archivisti’s passion for yesteryear also can produce scrutiny, however. On A Continuous Lean, commenters took the new Gant Rugger store in Manhattan — and the particulars of its rough-hewn interiors — to task, complaining the font used on a fitting-room door was not appropriate for the store’s turn-of-the-last-century aesthetic. “[The Arial font] was developed in the Eighties by Microsoft — hardly the bonafides commensurate with Gant’s historical or current projects,” one commenter brayed. The brand’s publicist wrote back explaining the font was just temporary and a more historically accurate typeface would replace it.
While heritage may be an obsession for the archivisti, that does not mean it’s irrelevant for their moms and dads. Moneyed, middle-age consumers also pay attention to the heritage of products they buy. According to a survey by the Luxury Institute from August, 54 percent of respondents said history and heritage were central to the definition of a luxury brand. Only quality, craftsmanship, design and exclusivity ranked higher. And those respondents weren’t the young authenticity hunters Pierpoint describes, but middle-age shoppers with an average age of 51 and a median income of $233,000.
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye