Marissa Webb spent more than 10 years in the J. Crew boot camp, working as head of women’s design with Jenna Lyons and Mickey Drexler, when she left to pursue her own line in 2011.
“A lot of people ask me, ‘Will your collection look like J. Crew?’ ” she says while prepping the collection over the summer. “The honest answer is: In my mind, no. But after being at J. Crew for 11 years, a lot of my own personal aesthetic is in J. Crew, because that was my job. The same things that influenced me then influence me now.”
Her first presentation, held at Lincoln Center in September, drew on the masculine-feminine point-counterpoint that is key to J. Crew, but Webb’s version was a little tougher, a little more sophisticated and urban, with an emphasis on leathers—tunics, biker shorts and motorcycle pants—along with graphic black and white. The line is priced at upper contemporary, starting around $125 for a T-shirt up to $1,500 for dresses.
Bedrock Manufacturing Co., the Dallas-based firm that also holds Steven Alan in its stable of fashion ventures, has a minority stake in Webb’s business. Steven Alan, in turn, is handling her sales, thus is also one of Webb’s eight retailers.
CV: Studied at Fashion Institute of Technology; worked at Club Monaco, Polo and J. Crew before launching her line for spring 2013.
Retailers: Eight, including six Barneys New York doors and Barneys Japan, Steven Alan and Deborah James.
Design Philosophy: Tough versus feminine, sophisticated while urban.
Julien David is a prime example of just how global the fashion trajectory can be. A native of Paris, he honed his craft in New York. After eight years, he participated in a year-long French cultural exchange program with Japan, which inspired him to move to Tokyo and launch his own label. It started with scarves, gradually evolving into outerwear and ultimately a full women’s and men’s collection.
Today, David, 33, brings a distinctive point of view to the industry by melding Japanese culture with French expertise. Known for his accessible streetwear accents, his quirky touch sets him apart from other emerging designers. For spring—David’s third runway show—he riffed on schoolgirls gone bad with blazers and pleated skirts rendered with a Japanese wit, particularly evident in his mix of striking prints.
“There is a different approach here,” David says of his adopted hometown. “They don’t have the weight of the history of Western clothes. They perceive and mix pieces very differently. It’s much more playful.”
David, who is self-financed, won France’s prestigious Andam Fashion Award in July, giving him a 230,000 euro (about $300,000) boost along with a two-season mentorship from Pierre-Yves Roussel, chief executive officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s fashion division. While the recognition has made him think about spending more time in Paris, David is not quite ready to leave Japan. “Everything seems so organized, but at same time it’s so busy and so lively,” he says. “I think that’s what seduced me.”
CV: Studied at Parsons The New School for Design; worked for Narciso Rodriguez and Ralph Lauren before launching his line three years ago.
Retailers: 60 stores, including Colette, Browns and Opening Ceremony.
Design Philosophy: Cool riffs on streetwear with plays on proportion and volume, all worked in upscale fabrics. NEXT: Brood >>
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)