Marissa Webb spent more than 10 years in the J. Crew boot camp, working as head of women’s design with Jenna Lyons and Mickey Drexler, when she left to pursue her own line in 2011.
“A lot of people ask me, ‘Will your collection look like J. Crew?’ ” she says while prepping the collection over the summer. “The honest answer is: In my mind, no. But after being at J. Crew for 11 years, a lot of my own personal aesthetic is in J. Crew, because that was my job. The same things that influenced me then influence me now.”
Her first presentation, held at Lincoln Center in September, drew on the masculine-feminine point-counterpoint that is key to J. Crew, but Webb’s version was a little tougher, a little more sophisticated and urban, with an emphasis on leathers—tunics, biker shorts and motorcycle pants—along with graphic black and white. The line is priced at upper contemporary, starting around $125 for a T-shirt up to $1,500 for dresses.
Bedrock Manufacturing Co., the Dallas-based firm that also holds Steven Alan in its stable of fashion ventures, has a minority stake in Webb’s business. Steven Alan, in turn, is handling her sales, thus is also one of Webb’s eight retailers.
CV: Studied at Fashion Institute of Technology; worked at Club Monaco, Polo and J. Crew before launching her line for spring 2013.
Retailers: Eight, including six Barneys New York doors and Barneys Japan, Steven Alan and Deborah James.
Design Philosophy: Tough versus feminine, sophisticated while urban.
Julien David is a prime example of just how global the fashion trajectory can be. A native of Paris, he honed his craft in New York. After eight years, he participated in a year-long French cultural exchange program with Japan, which inspired him to move to Tokyo and launch his own label. It started with scarves, gradually evolving into outerwear and ultimately a full women’s and men’s collection.
Today, David, 33, brings a distinctive point of view to the industry by melding Japanese culture with French expertise. Known for his accessible streetwear accents, his quirky touch sets him apart from other emerging designers. For spring—David’s third runway show—he riffed on schoolgirls gone bad with blazers and pleated skirts rendered with a Japanese wit, particularly evident in his mix of striking prints.
“There is a different approach here,” David says of his adopted hometown. “They don’t have the weight of the history of Western clothes. They perceive and mix pieces very differently. It’s much more playful.”
David, who is self-financed, won France’s prestigious Andam Fashion Award in July, giving him a 230,000 euro (about $300,000) boost along with a two-season mentorship from Pierre-Yves Roussel, chief executive officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s fashion division. While the recognition has made him think about spending more time in Paris, David is not quite ready to leave Japan. “Everything seems so organized, but at same time it’s so busy and so lively,” he says. “I think that’s what seduced me.”
CV: Studied at Parsons The New School for Design; worked for Narciso Rodriguez and Ralph Lauren before launching his line three years ago.
Retailers: 60 stores, including Colette, Browns and Opening Ceremony.
Design Philosophy: Cool riffs on streetwear with plays on proportion and volume, all worked in upscale fabrics. NEXT: Brood >>
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)