MILAN — Massimilano Giornetti believes he knows exactly what the Ferragamo customer wants.
So as the Tuscan designer readies his first women’s collection for the Florentine luxury goods house, which will be presented on Sunday, tricks and gimmicks aren’t on the radar.
Unlike his predecessor Cristina Ortiz, who focused on embellishments and eveningwear, Giornetti is pushing daywear that’s steeped in the house’s heritage and craftsmanship.
“Ferragamo has an amazing history. It represents glamour, a great family and elegance,” said Giornetti in an exclusive interview. “Our customer lives by the day and she’s not a fashion victim. Her tastes evolve but she’s faithful, not the volatile woman who buys Celine one day and Balmain the next.”
Giornetti, a graduate of Florentine fashion school Polimoda, joined Ferragamo in 2000 as knitwear assistant and was promoted to men’s wear designer four years later. In July, he was given responsibility for women’s ready-to-wear.
Ferruccio Ferragamo, the house’s chairman, praised Giornetti’s feet-on-the-ground vision. “Never as much as today must we concentrate on our core business and on what we know how to do best,” he said. “We don’t want to sacrifice any of our values for a spasmodic creativitybecause that’s not what the market wants from our brand.”
Michele Norsa, Ferragamo’s chief executive officer, said the company plans to open 45 stores this year, the majority of which will be concentrated in 30 smaller Chinese cities. The balance will roll out in Hanoi, Vietnam; Valencia, Spain; Mexico City; Singapore; Cairo; Johannesburg; Brasilia, and Bogotá, Colombia. The company also will increase its e-commerce presence in the U.S., Japan and the rest of Europe.
Saleswise, both Ferragamo and Norsa reported a brisk beginning of the year.
The 38-year-old Giornetti cited the polished elegance of the female Ferragamo family members, led by matriarch Wanda Ferragamo, as a source of inspiration. “All these ladies work, have families, lead a social life and need clothes to fit their lifestyle. I don’t understand why everyone gets nervous about making clothes that are comfortable and functional — it’s a mistake,” Giornetti contended.
Dapper coats, enveloping capes and knitwear are the backbones of the collection, mainly in luxurious wools and cashmeres, at times bonded together in double layers. Some styles are piped in napa leather or fur trimmed, while others feature “Gancino” closures or a roundish shaped metal clasp that is Ferragamo’s logo.Similarly adorned is the knitwear, either cozy cable knits and camel hair, or styles cut close to the body. A shiny suede jumpsuit, belted and buttoned down the front, is also a key look, said Giornetti.
Steering clear of black, Giornetti worked a rich and muted palette of mustard yellow, wood green, bitter chocolate brown and petroleum blue.
The accessories mirror the sobriety of the clothes with a whiff of Judy Garland and Greta Garbo. The shoes focus on three styles — a clean and simple boot, a pair of high-heeled lace ups and a strappy evening sandal with loops and passementerie details. “The latter is a model that Salvatore Ferragamo had designed but which never went into production,” said Giornetti.
Breaking News: @louisvuitton's men's artistic director @mrkimjones is leaving the French fashion house after nearly 7 years. Jones joined Louis Vuitton in 2011, following a three year tenure as creative director of British luxury goods brand Alfred Dunhill. Jones is to exit Louis Vuitton after showing his fall 2018 collection for the brand in Paris on Thursday. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews