Francisco Costa posed the question to himself again and again upon being offered one of the most exciting—and daunting—positions in American fashion: the women’s creative director for Calvin Klein Collection. His entrée would be fraught with comparison; who steps seamlessly into a spot vacated by a proverbial living legend, one renowned as a master provocateur, no less?
Ultimately, Costa told WWD at the time, “You just have to accept the challenge. If Calvin Klein passed me the responsibility, I have to take it.”
Ten years later, Costa is in full creative ownership of the label. Now razor-sharp in its clarity, his Calvin Klein emerged gradually as he became more confidently self-expressive and less reliant on archival diligence. Costa’s work pushes the brand’s core modernity while radiating his own imprimatur—one more obviously artful and, increasingly, less minimal than Klein’s. Recent collections invoked artistic references—the Bauhaus movement, Ferne Jacobs, Andrei Tarkovsky’s film Ivan’s Childhood. Costa’s spring collection—a wonder of intense fabric development—took cues from artists as diverse as Picasso and Basquiat, while riffing on the vibrant Eighties street culture in which Costa reveled as a young newcomer to New York.
Costa takes seriously his responsibility as keeper—and mover—of one of fashion’s greatest names. So much so that, in advance of his 10th anniversary as women’s creative director, he challenged his senior staff to an intense examination of their purpose at Calvin Klein, with the goal of distilling their discovery into a clear, concise mission statement that would reflect past accomplishments and encompass forward-looking goals. After a great deal of thoughtful conversation, they had it: “Our mission is to create provocative, sophisticated collections for confident women.”
Asked to break down the statement, Costa started with the first descriptive: provocative. “It’s a provocative brand,” he said. “It’s the soul of Calvin...a fearlessness.”
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
After showing in front of the Eiffel Tower for his last two women’s ready-to-wear collection, it looks like @anthonyvaccarello may be heading to the Big Apple. Sources say the designer will stage his next @ysl show in NYC on June 6. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion