Francisco Costa posed the question to himself again and again upon being offered one of the most exciting—and daunting—positions in American fashion: the women’s creative director for Calvin Klein Collection. His entrée would be fraught with comparison; who steps seamlessly into a spot vacated by a proverbial living legend, one renowned as a master provocateur, no less?
Ultimately, Costa told WWD at the time, “You just have to accept the challenge. If Calvin Klein passed me the responsibility, I have to take it.”
Ten years later, Costa is in full creative ownership of the label. Now razor-sharp in its clarity, his Calvin Klein emerged gradually as he became more confidently self-expressive and less reliant on archival diligence. Costa’s work pushes the brand’s core modernity while radiating his own imprimatur—one more obviously artful and, increasingly, less minimal than Klein’s. Recent collections invoked artistic references—the Bauhaus movement, Ferne Jacobs, Andrei Tarkovsky’s film Ivan’s Childhood. Costa’s spring collection—a wonder of intense fabric development—took cues from artists as diverse as Picasso and Basquiat, while riffing on the vibrant Eighties street culture in which Costa reveled as a young newcomer to New York.
Costa takes seriously his responsibility as keeper—and mover—of one of fashion’s greatest names. So much so that, in advance of his 10th anniversary as women’s creative director, he challenged his senior staff to an intense examination of their purpose at Calvin Klein, with the goal of distilling their discovery into a clear, concise mission statement that would reflect past accomplishments and encompass forward-looking goals. After a great deal of thoughtful conversation, they had it: “Our mission is to create provocative, sophisticated collections for confident women.”
Asked to break down the statement, Costa started with the first descriptive: provocative. “It’s a provocative brand,” he said. “It’s the soul of Calvin...a fearlessness.”
Taking the final spot on the mens’ portion of New York Fashion Week calendar next month will be none other than @tomford. Though he’s shown his men’s wear in New York in the past, this will mark the first time the designer has shown his men’s collection alone during New York Fashion Week: Men’s. His runway show will debut on February 6 at the Park Avenue Armory. #wwdfashion
London-based couture house @ralphandrusso has certainly been in the spotlight, having its dresses worn by @beyonce, Angelina Jolie, Meghan Markle in her engagement photos and more. For couture, Tamara Ralph focused on ornamentation — think: feathers with chain mail, jet embroidery and clusters of pearls and crystals. See the rest of the collection on WWD.com #wwdfashion #couture (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
Minnie Mouse celebrated her 90th birthday by getting her own star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. For her celebratory luncheon, @coach’s creative director @stuartvevers dressed her in a custom made prairie dress, complete with Vever’s take on the polka dot – black sequined versions – under a cropped motorcycle jacket. The designer also put his own mark on Minnie’s classic red shoes, infusing the color with sparkles and adding some Coach crystals. “We chose colors that were very Minnie and also represented quintessential Coach elements,” said Vevers. #wwdfashion #nationalpolkadotday (📷: George Chinsee)
@nickjonas is unveiling his first-ever apparel collection through a partnership with John Varvatos. The limited-edition capsule, which makes its debut in spring, also marks the first time the designer has collaborated with anyone on a line. “The process in working with Nick is amazing. It’s inspiring to be around someone who is not only connected with the trade that they do, but also with what’s happening in the environment around him, and how that connects to what we do with style,” said Varvatos. (RG: @johnvarvatos) #wwdfashion
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)