Francisco Costa posed the question to himself again and again upon being offered one of the most exciting—and daunting—positions in American fashion: the women’s creative director for Calvin Klein Collection. His entrée would be fraught with comparison; who steps seamlessly into a spot vacated by a proverbial living legend, one renowned as a master provocateur, no less?
Ultimately, Costa told WWD at the time, “You just have to accept the challenge. If Calvin Klein passed me the responsibility, I have to take it.”
Ten years later, Costa is in full creative ownership of the label. Now razor-sharp in its clarity, his Calvin Klein emerged gradually as he became more confidently self-expressive and less reliant on archival diligence. Costa’s work pushes the brand’s core modernity while radiating his own imprimatur—one more obviously artful and, increasingly, less minimal than Klein’s. Recent collections invoked artistic references—the Bauhaus movement, Ferne Jacobs, Andrei Tarkovsky’s film Ivan’s Childhood. Costa’s spring collection—a wonder of intense fabric development—took cues from artists as diverse as Picasso and Basquiat, while riffing on the vibrant Eighties street culture in which Costa reveled as a young newcomer to New York.
Costa takes seriously his responsibility as keeper—and mover—of one of fashion’s greatest names. So much so that, in advance of his 10th anniversary as women’s creative director, he challenged his senior staff to an intense examination of their purpose at Calvin Klein, with the goal of distilling their discovery into a clear, concise mission statement that would reflect past accomplishments and encompass forward-looking goals. After a great deal of thoughtful conversation, they had it: “Our mission is to create provocative, sophisticated collections for confident women.”
Asked to break down the statement, Costa started with the first descriptive: provocative. “It’s a provocative brand,” he said. “It’s the soul of Calvin...a fearlessness.”
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion
@longchamp, which marks its 70th anniversary this year, just opened its biggest U.S. store on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue. On the lower level there’s a floor-to-ceiling display of the brand’s iconic Le Pliage bag – in all of its different colors, shapes and sizes. Customers can also have their product personalized in-store by imprinting names, initials or emblems. #wwdfashion (📷: @ericmtownsend)
“Whenever I’m in that place of sound and music, I don’t have fear or nervousness…This album has a lot of themes of courage and boldness and I want to be the soundtrack for people’s lives. I’ll be so happy if [my songs] evoke strength in people, which I know music has done for me,” says @kimbramusic of her newest album “Primal Heart.” The New Zealand-born singer sat down with WWD to talk about her music, newest tour and connecting with hear fans — read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
Luxury handbag resale company @rebagofficial is planning to sell a rare collectible for $70,000: the @hermes White Crocodile Himalayan Birkin. The exclusive Birkin sold for about $100,000 in 2008, when @davidbeckham bought one for his wife @victoriabeckham to add to her collection. Read more about the rare Birkin on WWD.com #wwdaccessories
With her costume pearl necklace and what-you-see-is-what-you-get style, Barbara Bush, who died Tuesday at age 92, was a straight-shooter from start to finish.
Born Barbara Pierce in New York City, Bush served as the 37th first lady, as well as the country’s second lady from 1981 to 1989. In addition to being part of the longest presidential marriage — 73 years — Bush also had the unlikely distinction of having one son, George W., become the 43rd president and another son, Jeb, run unsuccessfully in 2016. Having served as second lady during the Reagan administration’s two terms and lived all over the world during her own husband’s ascending political career, Barbara Bush made it clear that literacy — not fashion — was her priority. Read more from Rosemary Feitelberg’s obituary on the late First Lady in WWD.com, link in bio. #barbarabush #wwdnews
Western and ’90s trends have influenced denim for fall 2018. Think raw, dark and coated jeans mixed with bold prints and tough leather. #trendtuesdays #wwdfashion (Styled by @thealexbadia;📷: @ryanplett)