After a solid holiday season, the polar vortex has cast a pall over the men’s business during the first three months of 2014 as shoppers stayed home to escape from the cold instead of venturing out to stores. While overall sales have not yet recovered, many retailers are seeing pockets of strength for spring and are expecting a further uptick as the weather improves.
“Nobody wants to blame the weather, but we got hit really hard,” said David Zant, senior vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s wear for Belk. “But we’re seeing business beginning to come back.”
“To find really escalating spring business, we have to look deep,” admitted David Fisher, executive vice president and gmm of men’s for Bloomingdale’s. “It’s a weird season. It’s not a disaster, but it’s softer than we would like.” Nevertheless, Fisher pointed to strength in outerwear and sweaters as well as emerging designers as top performers for spring.
Saks Fifth Avenue is seeing an uptick among “young, emerging brands,” according to Tom Ott, senior vice president and gmm. “There’s a real changing of the guard, more than I’ve ever seen in my career. And where we’re updating stores to be young and hip, we’re getting good traction,” he said.
“Spring business is very promising in spite of the ups and downs of the cold weather,” said Tom Kalenderian, executive vice president and gmm of men’s for Barneys New York. Luxury clothing; better, handmade dress shirts; men’s designer sportswear, and accessories are among the most promising businesses for spring. “We’re having a very positive start to the season,” he said.
Specialty stores are also seeing an uptick in men’s sales.
Laure Heriard Dubreuil, chief executive officer and founder of The Webster, said, “The men’s business is growing at a steady and healthy pace. The proof is that we are about to open a new location entirely dedicated to men’s in Bal Harbour. The men’s category is evolving a lot, in a more refined, detail-oriented way. They are not only looking at suits, but also paying attention to a lot of details for some more casual pieces such as a good pair of jeans, clean sneakers, button-downs, etc.”
Bob Mitchell, copresident of Mitchells Family of Stores, said, “I’m not one to blame the weather, but January and February had a slow start right out of the gate, and weather has definitely been a factor. But the mood of the customer is very positive, so I’m still optimistic. Anything new is selling.”
Sam Ben-Avraham, owner of Atrium in New York and Florida, said the “early-bird” shoppers “give us a good indication if the season is hit or miss, and gives us time to react.” This spring, “we’re definitely seeing some trends,” notably non-denim bottoms, athletic-inspired dress sweatpants and layering pieces.
Outside the U.S., men’s sales are also doing well. At Beams in Tokyo, Takashi Hattori, men’s buyer, said “new products start to sell earlier” every year. “Right now the ratio of people who actually buy things they’ve put on hold for spring 2014 is quite high.
In tailored clothing, Italian styles are leading the way and “the slim silhouette is a key element. Customers that were once only interested in business apparel have started to buy casual items to complement their wardrobes, and thus expanded our gentlemen’s market. We do not necessarily have new customers, but one customer buys more,” said Shuhei Yoshida, tailored clothing buyer.
At I.T in Hong Kong, David Fung, head of merchandising for men’s wear, said sales in 2014 are outperforming last year, with European and American brands such as Thom Browne, Valentino and Ami performing well for spring.
The results are strong in Europe as well.
In France, the men’s business is running 8 percent ahead of last spring, according to Maud Tarena, director of men’s fashion at Le Bon Marché, with designer jeans and sport shoes doing especially well. And in the U.K., Matchesfashion.com has seen a 200 percent increase in its men’s business over last year, and the retailer will respond by introducing 20 new labels for this coming fall season.
“It’s also highly encouraging for us that the average basket value of our clients continues to increase, reflecting the strong fashion literacy of our men’s wear customers, who are responding particularly well to collections including Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Christopher Kane and Balmain,” said Damien Paul, men’s wear buying manager.
Eleanor Robinson, buying manager for men’s contemporary at Selfridges, said customers are flocking to the store for “word-of-mouth premium streetwear labels, particularly those by designers with huge social media followings — Virgil Abloh, the founder of Off-White, is a great example of a face behind a label who has real power in that market. Men are increasingly interested in the personalities behind the brands they buy into, especially when those are bona-fide creatives with a fresh take on the fashion industry.”
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion