PARIS — Paris Fashion Week has nabbed another hot London designer for its schedule.
Gareth Pugh, 26, was named winner of the city's Andam award Thursday, scooping up 150,000 euros, or $234,000 at current exchange, that he plans to put toward financing his first Parisian show in October.
With Jefferson Hack, Jean-Jacques Picart, Pierre Bergé and Colette's Sarah Lerfel among members of the Andam jury, the official prize-giving ceremony will take place here Oct. 3.
"To now show in Paris is definitely the next step to propel my business internationally," said Pugh.
Having a Parisian project in view is a prerequisite to be eligible for the Andam prize, which is sponsored by the likes of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent Foundation and Longchamp, as well as France's Ministry of Industry and Ministry of Culture.
Martin Margiela was the recipient of the first Andam prize in 1989. Laureates since include Véronique Leroy, Viktor & Rolf and Anne Valérie Hash.
Pugh is known for his fantastical collections with a Gothic slant. His past creations have included a sweater dress fashioned from safety pins and a fur stole made from scores of white toy mice, while his references have ranged from the films "Predator" and "Moonwalker" to "The Wizard of Oz."
A Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design graduate, Pugh staged his first off-schedule London show in 2005, as part of Fashion East's group show. Befitting Pugh's presence on the London club scene, the designer's front row is often filled with an edgy crowd of cheering friends who sit alongside bemused fashion editors. Regularly costuming Kylie Minogue on her tours, Pugh has built up a roster of real-world customers, too. His collections are sold at Browns Focus in London, Colette in Paris and Barneys New York in Manhattan.
Despite his fledgling designer status, Pugh's creations have also already made their way into a number of high-profile museums, including New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute for the current "Superheroes: Fashion & Fantasy" exhibition. His work will also feature in "Gothic: Dark Glamour," due to show at the city's Fashion Institute of Technology Sept. 5 through Feb. 21, 2009.The designer also works closely with Swarovski, Moët et Chandon and MAC Cosmetics.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion