PARIS — Paris Fashion Week has nabbed another hot London designer for its schedule.
Gareth Pugh, 26, was named winner of the city's Andam award Thursday, scooping up 150,000 euros, or $234,000 at current exchange, that he plans to put toward financing his first Parisian show in October.
With Jefferson Hack, Jean-Jacques Picart, Pierre Bergé and Colette's Sarah Lerfel among members of the Andam jury, the official prize-giving ceremony will take place here Oct. 3.
"To now show in Paris is definitely the next step to propel my business internationally," said Pugh.
Having a Parisian project in view is a prerequisite to be eligible for the Andam prize, which is sponsored by the likes of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent Foundation and Longchamp, as well as France's Ministry of Industry and Ministry of Culture.
Martin Margiela was the recipient of the first Andam prize in 1989. Laureates since include Véronique Leroy, Viktor & Rolf and Anne Valérie Hash.
Pugh is known for his fantastical collections with a Gothic slant. His past creations have included a sweater dress fashioned from safety pins and a fur stole made from scores of white toy mice, while his references have ranged from the films "Predator" and "Moonwalker" to "The Wizard of Oz."
A Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design graduate, Pugh staged his first off-schedule London show in 2005, as part of Fashion East's group show. Befitting Pugh's presence on the London club scene, the designer's front row is often filled with an edgy crowd of cheering friends who sit alongside bemused fashion editors. Regularly costuming Kylie Minogue on her tours, Pugh has built up a roster of real-world customers, too. His collections are sold at Browns Focus in London, Colette in Paris and Barneys New York in Manhattan.
Despite his fledgling designer status, Pugh's creations have also already made their way into a number of high-profile museums, including New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute for the current "Superheroes: Fashion & Fantasy" exhibition. His work will also feature in "Gothic: Dark Glamour," due to show at the city's Fashion Institute of Technology Sept. 5 through Feb. 21, 2009.The designer also works closely with Swarovski, Moët et Chandon and MAC Cosmetics.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast