Emanuel Ungaro’s new creative director, who presents his debut collection on Monday, is aiming to pour the chic mystique of the legendary fashion street into the august, but lately rudderless house.
“[Ungaro] has a romance to it and that feeling of Parisian glamour that people are attracted to around the world,” enthused the bespectacled Brit designer during a preview on Wednesday. “Fresh, light, colorful and French” were some of the descriptors he threw out, hastening to add, “vivaciousness as well.”
Deacon said daywear, based on “superlight tailoring,” would be a particular emphasis, having met with store directors during couture last July and realizing that’s what they expect from the house, along with cocktail dresses and a “smattering” of eveningwear. Real women, not starlets, are the target, he stressed.
For his debut, Deacon opted to steer clear of “brash” colors, translating Ungaro’s reputation for prints in a range of sophisticated pastels, in addition to good measures of black lace.
He’ll skip the runway, too, instead presenting looks on about 30 models from various eras on a podium shaped like a daisy, a key print motif: miniaturized in silk twill; laser cut into tissue-weight leather; stylized into enamel buttons, and rendered in metallic jacquards by Swiss fabric house Solstiss.
Deacon said quality and sophistication are key watchwords of Ungaro, founded in 1965 and also known for “prints, color, a lightness and a sexiness.”
The affable designer is well aware of the huge expectations, being the sixth designer since the founder retired in 2004 to mount a rejuvenation drive. Yet, he said the turbulence did not damage the allure of the brand, and what he describes as “huge” potential.
“I feel very at home here to be honest,” he said. “There’s a really great energy here.”
Deacon’s Ungaro education stretches back to 1992 when he was still at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, and ramped up recently with a trawl through the archives.
“It’s my interpretation of where I think Ungaro should be,” he said. “I think it has to have a timeless elegance as well.”
Ungaro recently signed a production agreement with Italy’s Castor Srl, maker of Deacon’s signature collection since last year, to manufacture the Emanuel Ungaro Paris label, the French fashion house’s top ready-to-wear collection. The firm is aiming for wholesale volume in excess of 10 million euros next year, or about $12.7 million at current exchange, as reported.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)