Giorgio Armani is standing his ground. “Nothing has changed, and I am not joining the Camera,” said the designer after his Emporio Armani show on Monday. “It’s too easy to talk. I want more facts and less words.” A new board of the Italian Chamber of Fashion, which includes entrepreneurs such as Patrizio Bertelli, Diego Della Valle and Gildo Zegna, has been working on relaunching Milan Fashion Week, urging Armani and Dolce & Gabbana to become members of the association. Armani has responded that he would accept only on the condition that every Italian brand show in Milan.
Speaking to a group of reporters at his show theater, Armani touted Milan’s ready-to-wear fashion, comparing it with that of London and Paris. “We are better in terms of fashion, and I’m speaking about clothes, not bags, but we didn’t have the balls to stand up for a longer show week and needed someone to do it for us,” he said. “When the papers talk about somebody [Italian] showing in Paris, it doesn’t sit well with me. Why should we bring luster to other markets?”
Asked if he could be more open to a dialogue, he responded, “Are the French open? Are the English open? Are the Americans open, with that signora?” It was unclear whom Armani was referring to, but in the past the designer has spared no words in his criticism of Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour and her attempts to truncate the Milan Fashion Week schedule. Armani most recently criticized Wintour earlier this month for “forcing” Italian designers to “change our schedules. How dare she, with such an industry and all the production we have here?”
Armani explained that from his point of view, there will “never be an honest dialogue [within and with the Chamber] because there is too much competition,” and defined “real facts” — a protest that took place last week in front of a Zara store to bring attention to the crippling competition of low-cost countries, dumping measures and unlawful working conditions around the world, in addition to the suicide of a number of Italian entrepreneurs and producers here. “The rest is nothing,” said Armani.
Reminded that other designers are investing financially in the revamp of the Camera, Armani firmly responded: “I’ve opened my wallet for years.” Asked for his reaction if Miu Miu, for example, did return to show in Milan, he said, “It would be a step in the right direction.” The designer in the past has criticized Miu Miu and Valentino for showing in Paris rather than in Milan.
In terms of business, the designer said he was “quite happy” with the performance of the first six months of the year, which have shown double-digit growth. He pointed to Europe and the Far East as the markets with the biggest demand for men’s wear.
Armani’s comments about the Camera were in sharp contrast to those made Sunday by Mario Boselli, head of the group, at a press conference for international journalists at the Four Seasons in Milan. Asked about the possibility of Armani joining the organization, Boselli said the designer had set two conditions. He did not specify them, but claimed one of the conditions had already been met “and we are close to resolving the second.”
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)