Giorgio Armani is standing his ground. “Nothing has changed, and I am not joining the Camera,” said the designer after his Emporio Armani show on Monday. “It’s too easy to talk. I want more facts and less words.” A new board of the Italian Chamber of Fashion, which includes entrepreneurs such as Patrizio Bertelli, Diego Della Valle and Gildo Zegna, has been working on relaunching Milan Fashion Week, urging Armani and Dolce & Gabbana to become members of the association. Armani has responded that he would accept only on the condition that every Italian brand show in Milan.
Speaking to a group of reporters at his show theater, Armani touted Milan’s ready-to-wear fashion, comparing it with that of London and Paris. “We are better in terms of fashion, and I’m speaking about clothes, not bags, but we didn’t have the balls to stand up for a longer show week and needed someone to do it for us,” he said. “When the papers talk about somebody [Italian] showing in Paris, it doesn’t sit well with me. Why should we bring luster to other markets?”
Asked if he could be more open to a dialogue, he responded, “Are the French open? Are the English open? Are the Americans open, with that signora?” It was unclear whom Armani was referring to, but in the past the designer has spared no words in his criticism of Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour and her attempts to truncate the Milan Fashion Week schedule. Armani most recently criticized Wintour earlier this month for “forcing” Italian designers to “change our schedules. How dare she, with such an industry and all the production we have here?”
Armani explained that from his point of view, there will “never be an honest dialogue [within and with the Chamber] because there is too much competition,” and defined “real facts” — a protest that took place last week in front of a Zara store to bring attention to the crippling competition of low-cost countries, dumping measures and unlawful working conditions around the world, in addition to the suicide of a number of Italian entrepreneurs and producers here. “The rest is nothing,” said Armani.
Reminded that other designers are investing financially in the revamp of the Camera, Armani firmly responded: “I’ve opened my wallet for years.” Asked for his reaction if Miu Miu, for example, did return to show in Milan, he said, “It would be a step in the right direction.” The designer in the past has criticized Miu Miu and Valentino for showing in Paris rather than in Milan.
In terms of business, the designer said he was “quite happy” with the performance of the first six months of the year, which have shown double-digit growth. He pointed to Europe and the Far East as the markets with the biggest demand for men’s wear.
Armani’s comments about the Camera were in sharp contrast to those made Sunday by Mario Boselli, head of the group, at a press conference for international journalists at the Four Seasons in Milan. Asked about the possibility of Armani joining the organization, Boselli said the designer had set two conditions. He did not specify them, but claimed one of the conditions had already been met “and we are close to resolving the second.”
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia