MILAN — Gucci will officially unveil its first men’s wear flagship in Europe on Sunday evening with a party during Men’s Fashion Week.
Designed by creative director Frida Giannini, the 5,400-square-foot store covers three floors and is located in Milan’s arty Brera district. The unit counts an area dedicated to Gucci’s made-to-measure program and is the first to offer the capsule collection designed by Giannini and Lapo Elkann, named Lapo’s Wardrobe. The classic tailoring collection comprises 27 looks — 23 for men and four for women — and is completed by made-to-measure leather goods, shoes and jewelry.
Standout elements in the light and airy open space with an Art Deco mood are a series of backlit panels with Gucci’s Diamante pattern that lead the way into the store. The brand’s signature rosewood and ebony are enhanced with the introduction of new elements such as matte, light gray marble, exclusively used in Gucci’s men’s stores. Fluted glass, warm brushed bronze, smoked mirrors and smoked bronze glass all contribute to the design.
In line with Gucci’s commitment to sustainability, the company is seeking LEED, or Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design, certification for the store. The flagship carries the full men’s collection, including ready-to-wear, footwear, luggage, accessories, small leather goods, belts, sunglasses, watches, jewelry and fragrances. A VIP fitting area is reserved for Gucci’s made-to-measure on the first floor. The store also offers made-to-order shoes.
Giannini and Elkann had already worked together on the Fiat 500 by Gucci in 2011. Elkann, known for his stylish and sometimes quirky approach to fashion, brings a touch of eccentricity to Lapo’s Wardrobe, where the choice spans from suiting silhouettes and textiles, to linings, knitwear, shirts, suspenders, ties, scarves, cuff links, jewelry, shoes and luggage, all using exclusive patterns.
The made-to-measure wardrobe comprises more than 80 textiles that allow for more than 900 possible combinations between color, fabric and style.
There are two silhouettes, for single-breasted suits with rounded shoulders and double-breasted options with equestrian detailing. Of note are elements such as decorative turquoise silk thread in contrast, hand-stitching and manually created buttonholes. Jackets feature unique cuts accentuating the back. An internal label allows for the owner’s name, date of creation and the garment’s city of origin. In addition to Milan, the capsule collection in the future will be available in four Gucci stores worldwide — Paris, London, New York and São Paulo.
A selection of jacket linings include printed silks with archival patterns of feathers or horse saddles, for example, reproduced for the first time. Coordinated silk trim matches the foulard linings on collars and double cuffs. High-waisted pants feature slim lines, and detailing includes pleats, built-in belting, button-up cuffs and buttons for suspenders.
Materials include tartan wool, stretch cotton gabardine, cashmere corduroy, herringbone tweed, wool mohair and velvet. Blue, mandarin orange, green, red, ivory, mocha, navy, gray and black are some of the hues in the color palette. Jacquard with the signature letter G in a chain creates a subtle pinstripe. Shirts with embroidered initials and customized knit polos as well as cardigans, peacoats and the chesterfield, assorted bags, luggage and shoes complete the offer.
There are two women’s day suits and tuxedos with plunging necklines and emphasized waistlines, while shoulders may be either sharp or rounded. Fabrics comprise wool mohair, natural stretch wool, cashmere and velvet. There are also pumps in suede or velvet with bow detailing.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)