NEW YORK — The arrival of last weekend’s long-awaited springlike weather seemed perfectly timed for bridal market, which offered an array of diaphanous gowns.
Vera Wang set the pace by posting a 90-second video on her site, depicting a quartet of brides in Madame Grès-inspired gowns roaming alone through a Long Island estate. The designer, who built her business in bridal, has dedicated half of the space in her new Beverly Hills store to the category. RELATED STORY: Watch Vera Wang's Video Here >>
Jenny Packham started and ended her Friday night show at Industria Superstudio with a plus-size model to draw attention to the launch of a plus-size collection.
Marchesa’s Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig tried something new, too, seating guests at their show at round tables laden with Marchesa bridal-related stemware and other finery. Guests also left with Marchesa stationery from Wedding Paper Divas and Revlon by Marchesa beauty tools. Harvey Weinstein helped keep actress Jamie Chung company at the brand’s show Friday. (The “Sucker Punch” and “Hangover II” actress, who is newly engaged, appeared not to be playing any designer favorites. The day before she tweeted a photo of herself with Monique Lhuillier as a thanks for getting a preview.)
Carolina Herrera’s Friday night show had more of a convivial vibe as well, with waiters passing Champagne and hors d’oeuvres before the first model took to the runway. Called to Spain last week for Puig’s 100th anniversary, the designer left president Caroline Brown to welcome guests. The spring collection highlighted layering, lace treatment and silk silhouettes. There were also plenty of hidden accents such as supple corseting, handstitched seaming and laser-cut motifs. Herrera placed a greater emphasis on the design of the backs of the gowns with plunging lines and elegant appliqués. See the Spring 2015 Bridal Collections Here >>
Angel Sanchez presented an ultrafeminine collection. “A lot of people have said this is my most romantic collection. I don’t know if that’s a good thing or a bad thing. I like to think of myself as a modern designer,” Sanchez said during his presentation last week.
Intricate lace, beautiful matte floral embroideries and a playful point d’esprit had a vintage air, inspired by bridal magazine covers from the Fifties and Sixties. Sanchez said as a child growing up in Venezuela he learned to draw by tracing over the magazine covers that belonged to his mother.
To remind editors of its many styles, Oleg Cassini, a label that is sold exclusively at David’s Bridal, held its first show in several seasons at the Plaza Athénée.
Designer Michelle Ravare launched the Christopher Whyte label, an Old Hollywood-inspired bridal collection embellished with beaded crystal, pearls, thread work, stones and fur. Another relative newcomer is Victoria Kyriakides, who divides her time between Athens and New York designing customized wedding gowns. Having launched her collection last year, the designer sells to a handful of stores with retail prices ranging from $4,500 to $9,000. She described her spring line as “a poetic expression of fresh couture with precise attention to detail; elegant, flowing silhouettes that are fashion-forward yet transcend time.” RELATED STORY: Busy Bridal Market Week Schedule on Tap >>
Mark Ingram, whose signature New York boutique is a favorite with fashion-minded shoppers, had his own stationery news to share — the debut of Mark Ingram Papers for Dempsey & Carroll. He commissioned Sarah Singh to create the watercolors for the writing paper.
Ingram was energized by designers’ spring collections, especially Monique Lhuillier, Oscar de la Renta, Marchesa and Peter Langner. “It was as though this winter was so severe we all wanted to celebrate something beautiful, even the choices of colors reflected that. Monique had that gorgeous minty blue, and Peter had all those frosted colors,” Ingram said.
Refined on-the-shoulder gowns — triggered two years ago after Kate Middleton wore a long-sleeve Alexander McQueen wedding dress — were a major trend. Ingram also gave Naeem Khan’s, Jenny Packham’s, Mira Zwillinger’s and Inbal Dror’s bridal collections high marks.
But one element of his business that he is not so high on is the ever-shrinking lead time brides-to-be are giving themselves. “It is a much shorter cycle. They are shopping six months before their weddings. People aren’t engaged for long anymore. It used to be at least a year, but everyone has busy schedules now,” Ingram said.
Camille Russler, who has owned Ever After in Miami for 12 years, enthused about the abundance of soft, sensual deconstructed dresses for spring. “Each designer really kept a sense of their own signature. Vera Wang’s film was very on point as to who her customer is. Oscar showed us lots of new necklines, Carolina’s use of layering lace and embroideries was really beautiful,” said Russler, naming Ines diSanto, Reem Acra and Ulla-Maija as a few other favorites.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews