NEW YORK — The arrival of last weekend’s long-awaited springlike weather seemed perfectly timed for bridal market, which offered an array of diaphanous gowns.
Vera Wang set the pace by posting a 90-second video on her site, depicting a quartet of brides in Madame Grès-inspired gowns roaming alone through a Long Island estate. The designer, who built her business in bridal, has dedicated half of the space in her new Beverly Hills store to the category. RELATED STORY: Watch Vera Wang's Video Here >>
Jenny Packham started and ended her Friday night show at Industria Superstudio with a plus-size model to draw attention to the launch of a plus-size collection.
Marchesa’s Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig tried something new, too, seating guests at their show at round tables laden with Marchesa bridal-related stemware and other finery. Guests also left with Marchesa stationery from Wedding Paper Divas and Revlon by Marchesa beauty tools. Harvey Weinstein helped keep actress Jamie Chung company at the brand’s show Friday. (The “Sucker Punch” and “Hangover II” actress, who is newly engaged, appeared not to be playing any designer favorites. The day before she tweeted a photo of herself with Monique Lhuillier as a thanks for getting a preview.)
Carolina Herrera’s Friday night show had more of a convivial vibe as well, with waiters passing Champagne and hors d’oeuvres before the first model took to the runway. Called to Spain last week for Puig’s 100th anniversary, the designer left president Caroline Brown to welcome guests. The spring collection highlighted layering, lace treatment and silk silhouettes. There were also plenty of hidden accents such as supple corseting, handstitched seaming and laser-cut motifs. Herrera placed a greater emphasis on the design of the backs of the gowns with plunging lines and elegant appliqués. See the Spring 2015 Bridal Collections Here >>
Angel Sanchez presented an ultrafeminine collection. “A lot of people have said this is my most romantic collection. I don’t know if that’s a good thing or a bad thing. I like to think of myself as a modern designer,” Sanchez said during his presentation last week.
Intricate lace, beautiful matte floral embroideries and a playful point d’esprit had a vintage air, inspired by bridal magazine covers from the Fifties and Sixties. Sanchez said as a child growing up in Venezuela he learned to draw by tracing over the magazine covers that belonged to his mother.
To remind editors of its many styles, Oleg Cassini, a label that is sold exclusively at David’s Bridal, held its first show in several seasons at the Plaza Athénée.
Designer Michelle Ravare launched the Christopher Whyte label, an Old Hollywood-inspired bridal collection embellished with beaded crystal, pearls, thread work, stones and fur. Another relative newcomer is Victoria Kyriakides, who divides her time between Athens and New York designing customized wedding gowns. Having launched her collection last year, the designer sells to a handful of stores with retail prices ranging from $4,500 to $9,000. She described her spring line as “a poetic expression of fresh couture with precise attention to detail; elegant, flowing silhouettes that are fashion-forward yet transcend time.” RELATED STORY: Busy Bridal Market Week Schedule on Tap >>
Mark Ingram, whose signature New York boutique is a favorite with fashion-minded shoppers, had his own stationery news to share — the debut of Mark Ingram Papers for Dempsey & Carroll. He commissioned Sarah Singh to create the watercolors for the writing paper.
Ingram was energized by designers’ spring collections, especially Monique Lhuillier, Oscar de la Renta, Marchesa and Peter Langner. “It was as though this winter was so severe we all wanted to celebrate something beautiful, even the choices of colors reflected that. Monique had that gorgeous minty blue, and Peter had all those frosted colors,” Ingram said.
Refined on-the-shoulder gowns — triggered two years ago after Kate Middleton wore a long-sleeve Alexander McQueen wedding dress — were a major trend. Ingram also gave Naeem Khan’s, Jenny Packham’s, Mira Zwillinger’s and Inbal Dror’s bridal collections high marks.
But one element of his business that he is not so high on is the ever-shrinking lead time brides-to-be are giving themselves. “It is a much shorter cycle. They are shopping six months before their weddings. People aren’t engaged for long anymore. It used to be at least a year, but everyone has busy schedules now,” Ingram said.
Camille Russler, who has owned Ever After in Miami for 12 years, enthused about the abundance of soft, sensual deconstructed dresses for spring. “Each designer really kept a sense of their own signature. Vera Wang’s film was very on point as to who her customer is. Oscar showed us lots of new necklines, Carolina’s use of layering lace and embroideries was really beautiful,” said Russler, naming Ines diSanto, Reem Acra and Ulla-Maija as a few other favorites.
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews