NEW YORK — The arrival of last weekend’s long-awaited springlike weather seemed perfectly timed for bridal market, which offered an array of diaphanous gowns.
Vera Wang set the pace by posting a 90-second video on her site, depicting a quartet of brides in Madame Grès-inspired gowns roaming alone through a Long Island estate. The designer, who built her business in bridal, has dedicated half of the space in her new Beverly Hills store to the category. RELATED STORY: Watch Vera Wang's Video Here >>
Jenny Packham started and ended her Friday night show at Industria Superstudio with a plus-size model to draw attention to the launch of a plus-size collection.
Marchesa’s Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig tried something new, too, seating guests at their show at round tables laden with Marchesa bridal-related stemware and other finery. Guests also left with Marchesa stationery from Wedding Paper Divas and Revlon by Marchesa beauty tools. Harvey Weinstein helped keep actress Jamie Chung company at the brand’s show Friday. (The “Sucker Punch” and “Hangover II” actress, who is newly engaged, appeared not to be playing any designer favorites. The day before she tweeted a photo of herself with Monique Lhuillier as a thanks for getting a preview.)
Carolina Herrera’s Friday night show had more of a convivial vibe as well, with waiters passing Champagne and hors d’oeuvres before the first model took to the runway. Called to Spain last week for Puig’s 100th anniversary, the designer left president Caroline Brown to welcome guests. The spring collection highlighted layering, lace treatment and silk silhouettes. There were also plenty of hidden accents such as supple corseting, handstitched seaming and laser-cut motifs. Herrera placed a greater emphasis on the design of the backs of the gowns with plunging lines and elegant appliqués. See the Spring 2015 Bridal Collections Here >>
Angel Sanchez presented an ultrafeminine collection. “A lot of people have said this is my most romantic collection. I don’t know if that’s a good thing or a bad thing. I like to think of myself as a modern designer,” Sanchez said during his presentation last week.
Intricate lace, beautiful matte floral embroideries and a playful point d’esprit had a vintage air, inspired by bridal magazine covers from the Fifties and Sixties. Sanchez said as a child growing up in Venezuela he learned to draw by tracing over the magazine covers that belonged to his mother.
To remind editors of its many styles, Oleg Cassini, a label that is sold exclusively at David’s Bridal, held its first show in several seasons at the Plaza Athénée.
Designer Michelle Ravare launched the Christopher Whyte label, an Old Hollywood-inspired bridal collection embellished with beaded crystal, pearls, thread work, stones and fur. Another relative newcomer is Victoria Kyriakides, who divides her time between Athens and New York designing customized wedding gowns. Having launched her collection last year, the designer sells to a handful of stores with retail prices ranging from $4,500 to $9,000. She described her spring line as “a poetic expression of fresh couture with precise attention to detail; elegant, flowing silhouettes that are fashion-forward yet transcend time.” RELATED STORY: Busy Bridal Market Week Schedule on Tap >>
Mark Ingram, whose signature New York boutique is a favorite with fashion-minded shoppers, had his own stationery news to share — the debut of Mark Ingram Papers for Dempsey & Carroll. He commissioned Sarah Singh to create the watercolors for the writing paper.
Ingram was energized by designers’ spring collections, especially Monique Lhuillier, Oscar de la Renta, Marchesa and Peter Langner. “It was as though this winter was so severe we all wanted to celebrate something beautiful, even the choices of colors reflected that. Monique had that gorgeous minty blue, and Peter had all those frosted colors,” Ingram said.
Refined on-the-shoulder gowns — triggered two years ago after Kate Middleton wore a long-sleeve Alexander McQueen wedding dress — were a major trend. Ingram also gave Naeem Khan’s, Jenny Packham’s, Mira Zwillinger’s and Inbal Dror’s bridal collections high marks.
But one element of his business that he is not so high on is the ever-shrinking lead time brides-to-be are giving themselves. “It is a much shorter cycle. They are shopping six months before their weddings. People aren’t engaged for long anymore. It used to be at least a year, but everyone has busy schedules now,” Ingram said.
Camille Russler, who has owned Ever After in Miami for 12 years, enthused about the abundance of soft, sensual deconstructed dresses for spring. “Each designer really kept a sense of their own signature. Vera Wang’s film was very on point as to who her customer is. Oscar showed us lots of new necklines, Carolina’s use of layering lace and embroideries was really beautiful,” said Russler, naming Ines diSanto, Reem Acra and Ulla-Maija as a few other favorites.
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye