By  on March 3, 2008

The tone of the collections swung from happy-go-lucky to dark and edgy, with a little dramatic sparkle in the mix.

Sonia Rykiel: Whatever Sonia Rykiel's backstage secret is, she should bottle it up and sell it. Once again she sent out a parade of prancing models, happier than you've seen them since the last Rykiel show. They skipped and smiled down the runway in an equally cheerful lineup replete with the house's signature spunky stripes, knits and trompe l'oeil motifs. Knits came in bell-shaped dresses that sported whimsical bunnies or swans, or multicolored striped sweaters, some that slouched saucily off the shoulder. Shifts, jackets and pants bedazzled with colorful disks added to the playful spirit, which reached a fever pitch at the glitter-fueled finale, complete with dresses emblazoned with Rykiel's face. Covered-up coats and long, printed silk goddess dresses with sexy peekaboos suited a more grown-up girl, but, for the most part, newly promoted creative director Gabrielle Greiss seemed to have a younger audience in mind. And while any plucky girl would get a kick out of bejeweled bloomers or a sheer purple tiered dress, they might be a little difficult for Rykiel loyalists who are merely young at heart.

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