LONDON — Jaeger is aiming to raise its profile and make inroads into international markets, including the U.S.
Earlier this month, the London-based brand launched a capsule collection for Saks Fifth Avenue. This week, it appointed Brigid Loizou as design director. In February, Jaeger London, the brand's diffusion line, will show at London Fashion Week.
Belinda Earl, Jaeger's chief executive officer, said the focus was on building international franchises and wholesale accounts.
Earl also wants to reinforce Jaeger's luxury design image, with plans to rejuvenate all the flagships and regional U.K. stores, and attract new consumers through diffusion lines such as Jaeger Black and Jaeger London.
Jaeger's capsule collection for Saks Fifth Avenue went on sale earlier this month at 11 Saks stores, and is exclusive to the retailer in the U.S.
"It takes you all the way from day- to eveningwear," said Earl. "The collection builds on Jaeger's strengths, our core DNA."
Prices for the 30-piece collection range from $180 for trousers to $595 for a jacket. Earl said the prices were similar to existing U.K. levels. The collection's fabrics have been adapted to the American market, however, with lighter-weight materials. Earl said these were because of climate differences between the two countries.
"We are a one-climate brand in the U.K. We needed to cater to all the climate differences across the U.S. The Saks collection is ideal for layering," she said.
Earl ruled out opening stand-alone stores in the U.S. in the short term.
"There is nothing suitable at the moment. This is partly why we have developed the relationship with Saks Fifth Avenue. We would like a freestanding store, but it takes a long time to get these things right. This is a great way for us to enter the U.S. market. There is a high awareness of us in the U.S.," she said.
Earl added she was also focusing on other international markets. This month, the brand began wholesaling through two major David Jones outlets in Australia, and recently acquired franchises in Switzerland, Copenhagen, Taiwan, Dubai and Canada, in addition to the brand's existing 50 U.K. stand-alones and concessions.
The decision to show Jaeger London at London Fashion Week is part of Earl's strategy to solidify the company's international reputation and attract overseas buyers. "We have an international profile now, and this will be a great platform for us," Earl said.
Jaeger London is the brand's younger directional collection. It was introduced three years ago as part of a brand relaunch by retail mogul Harold Tillman, who purchased the company in March 2003. The collection is stocked in 30 stores across the U.K. Earl said the line has been a key factor in rejuvenating the brand.
"It's brought us a new consumer, and led to the reappraisal of Jaeger. We have a new consumer now, in their late 30s, whereas before we were perceived as older," she said.
Jaeger has also launched a new upper-tier collection, Jaeger Black, in the last year, a limited range of special occasion and daywear stocked in selected flagships at roughly 200 pounds, or $407, for a top, to 700 pounds, or $1,427, for an evening gown. In August, the brand also launched a Jaeger London fragrance and beauty range.
Beginning this month, design director Loizou, who formerly worked at Alberta Ferretti and MaxMara, will oversee the creative direction of all Jaeger lines.
"Brigid will greatly compliment our team and continue to drive the Jaeger brand forward as we enter a very exciting growth phase, both domestically and internationally," said Earl.
Jaeger has come a long way from its weak position in the market four years ago. In 2003, the ailing brand was purchased by Tillman, who — along with Earl — has worked on the relaunch. In June, the company said profits had risen 45 percent to 5 million pounds, or $9.9 million, in the fiscal year ending Feb. 28. Sales totaled 706 million pounds, or $1.4 billion, a 22 percent increase.
"It's very exciting," said Earl. "We are on an amazing journey."
@pantone announced their Color of the Year 2018: Ultra Violet. Nearly 20 months after the musician Prince’s death, fashion is having a purple moment. Varying shades of purple appeared on spring or fall runways, from @christopherkane to @calvinklein. @gucci’s Alessandro Michele bathed his fall runway in ultra violet-colored light at one point. Pantone 18-3838 is meant to “push the boundaries of what inspires us to look upward and outward to the future.” #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@badgalriri’s @fentybeauty launch in September was a massive success on social media, powering $72.9 million of earned media value, according to Tribe Dynamics. The brand’s foundation offering sparked conversations about diversity in beauty, launching the growth of emerging influencers and propelling the brand’s support on social media. Today, #fentybeauty won Launch of the Year at the WWD #BeautyIncAwards. (📷: Chema Moya/EPE-EFE)
@marianna_hewitt has become one of the most influential content creators in the beauty space, with almost 800,000 Instagram followers and a newly launched skin care line called @SummerFridays. Today, she was awarded Influencer of the Year at the WWD #BeautyIncAwards. (📸: @sophiachabbott )
As shopping behaviors evolve, the retail experience must follow. Head over to retail experts @colliersinternational’s Knowledge Leader series to read more about the shift in our shopping era. #colliersretail #lovecolliers
@prada opened a pop-up club, called Prada Double Club, in collaboration with German artist Cartsen Höller at @artbasel Miami. Last night, guests – including @youngparis, @ritaora and even Miuccia Prada herself – gathered in a former ice factory where the pop-up is housed for a performance from @wyclefjean. Go to WWD.com for full coverage on all the exhibits, parties and more at #ArtBaselMiami. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
@louboutinworld and @disney are making magic once again, creating a set of shoe designs for the release of “Star Wars: The Last Jedi.” Louboutin designed a pair of shoes for each of the film’s four female leads: Rey (@daisyridrey), Vice Admiral Amilyn Holdo (@lauradern), Captain Phasma (Gwendoline Christie) and Rose Tico (@kellymarietran). The shoes will debut on Saturday at the L.A. premiere of the latest episode. #wwdfashion
Today at the #BeautyIncAwards 2017, WWD will be joined by beauty leaders from around the world as we honor this year's most innovative people, products, brands and places. Follow along here and on Twitter for live coverage from the exclusive event. #wwdsummits (📷: @elizaflorendo)
Exclusive: Beauty superinfluencer @marianna_hewitt is launching her first-ever skin care brand with her business partner @laurengores. Their new line Summer Fridays, which will be sold exclusively at summerfridays.com starting in January, is launching with just one product – a hydrating cream Jet Lag Mask. “We wanted to focus on one product that was amazing,” said Hewitt. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Michelin star-rated chef PJ Calapa marks his first solo endeavor with today’s opening of @scampinyc –– the new Southern Italian restaurant located in Manhattans’ Flatiron District. The upscale yet welcoming environment matches the menu, which includes two types of scampi: traditional Italian langoustines in butter and the Americanized version with shrimp over pasta 🍤 - pictured here. #wwdeye (📷: George Chinsee)