LONDON — Jaeger is aiming to raise its profile and make inroads into international markets, including the U.S.
Earlier this month, the London-based brand launched a capsule collection for Saks Fifth Avenue. This week, it appointed Brigid Loizou as design director. In February, Jaeger London, the brand's diffusion line, will show at London Fashion Week.
Belinda Earl, Jaeger's chief executive officer, said the focus was on building international franchises and wholesale accounts.
Earl also wants to reinforce Jaeger's luxury design image, with plans to rejuvenate all the flagships and regional U.K. stores, and attract new consumers through diffusion lines such as Jaeger Black and Jaeger London.
Jaeger's capsule collection for Saks Fifth Avenue went on sale earlier this month at 11 Saks stores, and is exclusive to the retailer in the U.S.
"It takes you all the way from day- to eveningwear," said Earl. "The collection builds on Jaeger's strengths, our core DNA."
Prices for the 30-piece collection range from $180 for trousers to $595 for a jacket. Earl said the prices were similar to existing U.K. levels. The collection's fabrics have been adapted to the American market, however, with lighter-weight materials. Earl said these were because of climate differences between the two countries.
"We are a one-climate brand in the U.K. We needed to cater to all the climate differences across the U.S. The Saks collection is ideal for layering," she said.
Earl ruled out opening stand-alone stores in the U.S. in the short term.
"There is nothing suitable at the moment. This is partly why we have developed the relationship with Saks Fifth Avenue. We would like a freestanding store, but it takes a long time to get these things right. This is a great way for us to enter the U.S. market. There is a high awareness of us in the U.S.," she said.
Earl added she was also focusing on other international markets. This month, the brand began wholesaling through two major David Jones outlets in Australia, and recently acquired franchises in Switzerland, Copenhagen, Taiwan, Dubai and Canada, in addition to the brand's existing 50 U.K. stand-alones and concessions.
The decision to show Jaeger London at London Fashion Week is part of Earl's strategy to solidify the company's international reputation and attract overseas buyers. "We have an international profile now, and this will be a great platform for us," Earl said.
Jaeger London is the brand's younger directional collection. It was introduced three years ago as part of a brand relaunch by retail mogul Harold Tillman, who purchased the company in March 2003. The collection is stocked in 30 stores across the U.K. Earl said the line has been a key factor in rejuvenating the brand.
"It's brought us a new consumer, and led to the reappraisal of Jaeger. We have a new consumer now, in their late 30s, whereas before we were perceived as older," she said.
Jaeger has also launched a new upper-tier collection, Jaeger Black, in the last year, a limited range of special occasion and daywear stocked in selected flagships at roughly 200 pounds, or $407, for a top, to 700 pounds, or $1,427, for an evening gown. In August, the brand also launched a Jaeger London fragrance and beauty range.
Beginning this month, design director Loizou, who formerly worked at Alberta Ferretti and MaxMara, will oversee the creative direction of all Jaeger lines.
"Brigid will greatly compliment our team and continue to drive the Jaeger brand forward as we enter a very exciting growth phase, both domestically and internationally," said Earl.
Jaeger has come a long way from its weak position in the market four years ago. In 2003, the ailing brand was purchased by Tillman, who — along with Earl — has worked on the relaunch. In June, the company said profits had risen 45 percent to 5 million pounds, or $9.9 million, in the fiscal year ending Feb. 28. Sales totaled 706 million pounds, or $1.4 billion, a 22 percent increase.
"It's very exciting," said Earl. "We are on an amazing journey."
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye
Did you know: @carlychaikin of "Mr. Robot" has been painting for about a decade? The actress, who plays Darlene on the show, is a self-taught artist who lists Salvador Dalí and Chuck Close as some of her idols. Chaikin told WWD that painting is a form of meditation for her — A much-needed one given the intensity of "Mr. Robot." See a piece Chaikin is working on at WWD.com (📷: @jilliansollazzo) #wwdeye