LONDON — Jaeger is aiming to raise its profile and make inroads into international markets, including the U.S.
Earlier this month, the London-based brand launched a capsule collection for Saks Fifth Avenue. This week, it appointed Brigid Loizou as design director. In February, Jaeger London, the brand's diffusion line, will show at London Fashion Week.
Belinda Earl, Jaeger's chief executive officer, said the focus was on building international franchises and wholesale accounts.
Earl also wants to reinforce Jaeger's luxury design image, with plans to rejuvenate all the flagships and regional U.K. stores, and attract new consumers through diffusion lines such as Jaeger Black and Jaeger London.
Jaeger's capsule collection for Saks Fifth Avenue went on sale earlier this month at 11 Saks stores, and is exclusive to the retailer in the U.S.
"It takes you all the way from day- to eveningwear," said Earl. "The collection builds on Jaeger's strengths, our core DNA."
Prices for the 30-piece collection range from $180 for trousers to $595 for a jacket. Earl said the prices were similar to existing U.K. levels. The collection's fabrics have been adapted to the American market, however, with lighter-weight materials. Earl said these were because of climate differences between the two countries.
"We are a one-climate brand in the U.K. We needed to cater to all the climate differences across the U.S. The Saks collection is ideal for layering," she said.
Earl ruled out opening stand-alone stores in the U.S. in the short term.
"There is nothing suitable at the moment. This is partly why we have developed the relationship with Saks Fifth Avenue. We would like a freestanding store, but it takes a long time to get these things right. This is a great way for us to enter the U.S. market. There is a high awareness of us in the U.S.," she said.
Earl added she was also focusing on other international markets. This month, the brand began wholesaling through two major David Jones outlets in Australia, and recently acquired franchises in Switzerland, Copenhagen, Taiwan, Dubai and Canada, in addition to the brand's existing 50 U.K. stand-alones and concessions.
The decision to show Jaeger London at London Fashion Week is part of Earl's strategy to solidify the company's international reputation and attract overseas buyers. "We have an international profile now, and this will be a great platform for us," Earl said.
Jaeger London is the brand's younger directional collection. It was introduced three years ago as part of a brand relaunch by retail mogul Harold Tillman, who purchased the company in March 2003. The collection is stocked in 30 stores across the U.K. Earl said the line has been a key factor in rejuvenating the brand.
"It's brought us a new consumer, and led to the reappraisal of Jaeger. We have a new consumer now, in their late 30s, whereas before we were perceived as older," she said.
Jaeger has also launched a new upper-tier collection, Jaeger Black, in the last year, a limited range of special occasion and daywear stocked in selected flagships at roughly 200 pounds, or $407, for a top, to 700 pounds, or $1,427, for an evening gown. In August, the brand also launched a Jaeger London fragrance and beauty range.
Beginning this month, design director Loizou, who formerly worked at Alberta Ferretti and MaxMara, will oversee the creative direction of all Jaeger lines.
"Brigid will greatly compliment our team and continue to drive the Jaeger brand forward as we enter a very exciting growth phase, both domestically and internationally," said Earl.
Jaeger has come a long way from its weak position in the market four years ago. In 2003, the ailing brand was purchased by Tillman, who — along with Earl — has worked on the relaunch. In June, the company said profits had risen 45 percent to 5 million pounds, or $9.9 million, in the fiscal year ending Feb. 28. Sales totaled 706 million pounds, or $1.4 billion, a 22 percent increase.
"It's very exciting," said Earl. "We are on an amazing journey."
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)