TOKYO — This city’s fashion week is only a few days into its extended six-and-half-day run and there are already plenty of noteworthy developments, including a special runway appearance by Paul Smith, a show staged on a Thirties-era sailing ship and an eclectic range of collections, from sexy cabaret fare to textured knits.
Here are some of the highlights of the week so far:
• Smith opened fashion week with a Sunday show of his spring collection as a tribute to his largest market after the devastating March 11 earthquake. The finale saw the designer walking the runway in a white shirt with the phrase “I love Japan” printed on the back, surrounded by models in rainbow-colored shirts. “Through war and tragedy, what we must do is remember friendship, conversation, touch, heart, love....We should reassess everyday things,” he said.
• Tokyo fashion week’s new sponsor Mercedes-Benz is ever-present this season with its cars and signage at every turn in and around the official venue of Tokyo Midtown. The carmaker also called on four young designers from the Vantan Design Institute to create clothing inspired by the company’s newly released C-Class Coupe. On Monday, models dressed in the mini-collections paraded in front of the car at an event at the Mercedes-Benz showroom, which is also serving as a venue for other shows and presentations throughout the week.
• Theatre Products designers Akira Takeuchi and Tayuka Nakanishi took over a Thirties-era sailing ship docked in Yokohama and staged a trio of vignettes featuring child ballerinas, a brass band and pirouetting models. The chic pants suits with peaked lapels and elegant column dresses had an appropriately retro flavor.
• In keeping with past seasons, Matohu designers Hiroyuki Horihata and Makiko Sekiguchi provided another modern and fresh take on the kimono. Stripes and delicate patterns resembling flower petals complemented a seasonally appropriate palette of sage, slate blue, lemon and sea foam green.
• Former Y’s Red Label designer Michiko Suzuki staged her spring fashion show for her line, which bears the name Nocturne #22 In C Sharp Minor, Op. Posth. Accompanied by live, hymn-like piano music, models were decked out in loose, asymmetric pieces that were a nod to the designer’s roots with Yohji Yamamoto, who himself sat second row at the show.
• For his debut show, Yasutoshi Ezumi created a series of long and flowing knit vests, cardigans and layered skirts in black, beige and slate blue silk. The collection was sleek and sophisticated, with clean lines and simple shapes.
• Motonari Ono employed a cabaret-style stage, from which models walked the runway in his lingerie-inspired designs. True to his signature style, the collection had no shortage of feminine details like lace and ruffles. There was a slight flapper feel with loose, body skimming dresses trimmed with fringe and lace or tulle overlays.
• Nozomi Ishiguro said he was reading newspaper articles before drifting off to sleep one night and proceeded to dream about a coup d’etat. The next day he saw some kids making cream puffs. That peculiar sequence of events inspired his lineup of long transparent, gauzy dresses worn over fishnet tights, shimmery fabric worked into puffy tutu-like skirts and motorcycle jackets festooned with a myriad of zippers.
• G.V.G.V., whose designer goes by the name Mug, took a playful romp through the Fifties, replete with cat-eye glasses and platform saddle shoes. There were slender skirts, high-waisted pants and peplum blouses in a palette of peach, lilac and pale green, while the occasional leopard print provided a dose of edginess. Striking botanical patterns were worked into everything from cigarette pants to bikinis and flirty dresses.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)