NEW YORK — After a decadelong absence, John Bartlett is setting his sights on women’s wear again.
The designer, who is unveiling his fall men’s wear collection at Hudson & Broad in TriBeCa on Feb. 10, will include a capsule collection of women’s looks in the presentation.
The women’s pieces will cull inspiration from his men’s wear, with looks adapted to fit the women’s silhouettes.
“I have had so many women come into my store, and I have met so many women out on the road who really love the look and quality of men’s wear, and everything that men’s wear offers that isn’t offered in women’s wear,” Bartlett explained. “A lot of women will come in and try on my men’s clothes. They’re always too big for them and not fit for their bodies, but they love the expression. These are women that are not looking for ruffles or lace or jeggings. It’s a different kind of approach to clothing.”
Bartlett added that with his new extension, he would like to bring the quality and tailoring of men’s wear to the women’s arena. The designer is no stranger to women’s wear. As part of a partnership with Genny Holding SpA in the Nineties, he created women’s wear using Genny’s factories, tailors and other resources.
“When I had done women’s wear before, I started out with this idea of ‘butch femme,’ with a real combination and a play on gender,” Bartlett recalled. “Over the seasons, I found myself getting pushed to do more chiffon and ruffles and beading, and things that really were not me.” Bartlett’s relationship with Genny ended in 2000, after the Italian manufacturer was bought by Prada Group.
“At that point, I had to decide, with my limited finances, to pick one or the other, and I picked men’s wear because I had studied that originally in school, and now I am feeling confident in what I am about and who my customer is, both male and female.
“I am very clear who this woman is for the first time in my career,” he added.
For his inspiration, Bartlett cited “very strong women,” from Katharine Hepburn to the Russian constructivist movement. For fall in particular, Bartlett pointed to constructivist artists Lyubov Popova and Varvara Stepanova.
“They created fashion and textiles, and I love that they were revolutionaries and I love that strong voice,” Bartlett said.
The clothes will be made in the same factories that make Bartlett’s men’s wear, including Martin Greenfield in Brooklyn. The designer declined to disclose wholesale price points for the line, but suggested retail prices range from $185 to $225 for dress shirts; $245 to $300 for pants and skirts; $795 to $995 for jackets, and $1,195 to $1,295 for outerwear. Bartlett plans to sell the collection in his store at 143 Seventh Avenue South, as well as wholesale it to upscale specialty and department stores. As for projections, Bartlett didn’t disclose a dollar amount but said they were “very humble.” “It’s more about establishing the collection, the fit and the customer and then to see what happens,” he said. “I’d like to offer it to be a stand-alone business and a stand-alone identity. My fantasy is to develop more retail and have women’s stores alongside the men’s store.”
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)