NEW YORK — Just Cavalli is back, and as flamboyant as ever.
Nearly two years after former licensing partner Ittierre closed Just Cavalli’s store on Fifth Avenue here, the brand has opened with new licensee Staff International, through Staff USA, a 5,650-square-foot flagship in SoHo.
The store, at 434 West Broadway, near Grand Street, represents the brand’s comeback after Ittierre’s severe financial woes clipped its expansion wings.
“I think the brand was like a beloved child that was seriously ill, and I feel like the doctor,” Roberto Cavalli told WWD. “I enjoyed bringing it back.
“I like the idea of having the store on West Broadway, because I used to live there,” he added. “It’s an area that I adore. There are also a number of designer brands that rarely make mistakes in positioning, such as Giorgio Armani’s Emporio Armani store, for example.” RELATED STORY: Just Cavalli RTW Spring 2014 >>
“In the last year, this area underwent a huge transformation with art galleries and stores,” said Monica Voltolina, chief executive officer of Staff USA. “Uptown, we’ve developed a strong partnership with Saks Fifth Avenue.” She said a shop-in-shop at Saks is in Just Cavalli’s future. Meanwhile, men’s wear is sold at Bloomingdale’s.
“We will open more stores,” Voltolina said. “We have tremendous success in Miami” with wholesale accounts. “Miami is definitely in our future, and Los Angeles for sure. It will happen very soon, I’d say we’re working on that.” Voltolina declined to be more specific. She said the brand could open a freestanding unit in Canada, where it has wholesale accounts.
“The line has been growing 25 percent to 35 percent each season, almost from scratch, after the Ittierre tragedy,” the designer said. “We need another couple of years to return to phenomenal [sales] figures.” Sales are now at around 90 million euros, or $121.6 million at current exchange. They were at around 200 million euros years ago, before Ittierre’s financial troubles.
The store references iconic Cavalli symbols such as animal prints, with python skin-pattern fabric embedded in glass steps on the staircase to the lower level, leopard print on diamond-shaped screens behind the windows and animal spots on a diamond-shaped video wall. “We gave a digital soul to the store,” Voltolina said. “It’s a virtual store for clients to see through renderings and images.”
An unusual sofa and side tables made from layers of fabric from previous collections was designed by Cavalli and anchors the main floor shoe area near the runway collection. The main Just Cavalli collection and pre-collection hang downstairs along with a men’s wear area and VIP room. The latter is paneled in blackened wood and has a large layered fabric ottoman. Some of the most unusual runway pieces hang in the VIP area, such as a short blue-and-white fox fur jacket for $20,965. Dresses range from $395 for jersey to $995 for embroidered silk. A black leather and lace jacket in the main collection is $1,400. Jewelry, watches and handbags are also offered.
Cavalli and Renzo Rosso, founder of Only the Brave, or OTB, which owns Staff, in December will attend a party at the store to celebrate the opening.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty