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MILAN — Just Cavalli has canceled its fashion show, which was scheduled for Thursday during Milan Fashion Week.
This story first appeared in the February 25, 2009 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Ittierre SpA, the brand’s licensee, filed for bankruptcy protection earlier this month after running out of cash. As reported, Italy named three administrators for Ittierre and tasked them with safeguarding the future of the company — a decision that leaves Cavalli in a wait-and-see mode, and, according to sources, “dissatisfied.”
“I have made this decision in order to protect the Just Cavalli image and its clients,” Roberto Cavalli stated. “The difficult Ittierre situation leaves me with no guarantee and no certainty that my young line will be as avant-garde as always.”
The designer pointed to “research, stylistic freedom and innovation” as the basis for the Just Cavalli brand, and said he still hopes to present the brand’s spring collection in September.
Despite the cancellation of the show, a company spokesman said Ittierre will produce and distribute the fall Just Cavalli line.
Just Cavalli, whose licensing agreement with Ittierre expires in 2010, is estimated to account for more than a third of IT Holding’s revenues. Ittierre also operates under license the VJC Versace, Versace Sport, C’N’C Costume National and Galliano labels. The C’N’C Costume National show is scheduled for Friday in Milan.
Ittierre is controlled by IT Holding SpA, which has warned it could follow its subsidiary into administration. IT Holding also owns the Gianfranco Ferré and Malo brands. Ferré said Tuesday that, despite “recent unfounded rumors,” it will hold its show, as scheduled, on Friday. Ferré’s apparel is produced by Bologna-based ITC, under the IT Holding umbrella, and not by Ittierre. ITC also produces the woven division of Malo, while the brand’s knitwear is manufactured between plants in Florence and Piacenza, Italy.
Malo will hold an off-calendar presentation by appointment. A Malo spokeswoman said Ittierre completed production of the fall collection, but that, earlier this month, the owner decided to cancel the brand’s presentation and suspend other investments in communication, such as advertising. Malo had been showing in New York, but IT Holding decided to return to the brand’s roots by showing in Milan, which coincided with Alessandro Dell’Acqua taking over the design helm.