Racks of dresses might not be clogging the streets of Seventh Avenue like they used to, but it’s still called the Garment District.
Different industries have set up camp in Manhattan’s fashion hub in recent years, from technology to advertising agencies. And while more of these businesses are taking up residence in the fabled district, there’s a movement to keep fashion production in the neighborhood. One such initiative to preserve the area’s flavor is called Made in Midtown, a comprehensive study on which the Council of Fashion Designers of America and the Design Trust for Public Space partnered to evaluate the fashion industry’s presence in the area. The aim was to keep it zoned for garment manufacturing.
The initiative is led by Yeohlee Teng, who serves as the liaison between the CFDA board and City Hall. Its first phasereviewed the public spaces in Midtown with an eye on what the future Garment District could look like. A second phase, due out this fall, will offer recommendations on revitalizing the area and staying focused on entrepreneurship and fashion production. “It was a foregone conclusion that we need the industry to thrive in the city for identity reasons and for economic reasons,” Teng says, noting that phase one had a big influence on the city. “I think it gave them pause and made them rethink land-use issues, job issues and the value of fashion to the city.”
A “Save the Garment Center” campaign began in late summer 2008 in earnest via a T-shirt conceived by Anna Sui and circulated during fashion week that September. The grassroots campaign grew from a recognition that zoning in the area was no longer working to preserve manufacturing and production there, allowing for the redevelopment of what was once factory buildings into luxury lofts and hotels.
The fashion industry in New York employs more than 173,000 individuals and generates about $10 billion in wages, according to data from the NYC Economic Development Corp. As for how big the garment industry is for the city, according to NYCEDC, the total employed in fashion here represents 5.7 percent of the city’s workforce and generates nearly $2 billion in tax revenue annually. The fashion retail market is growing at a pace that the city projects will increase employment in apparel and accessories stores by 17 percent by 2025. A June 2012 report from the Bureau of Labor Statistics projects tailors, dressmakers and custom sewers to grow by 2 percent between 2010 and 2020.
Andrew Rosen, cofounder and chief executive officer of Theory and and “angel investor” inemerging designer firms, is working on the Fashion.NYC.2020 initiative, a program of Mayor Michael Bloomberg and the NYCEDC. Launched in January 2010, the program analyzes the state of the fashion industry ecosystem as well as strategies to enhance New York’s position as a global fashion capital. Among its key goals are to attract more young managerial talent to the city, and to enhance the city as a hub of retail innovation.
Rosen has been working to modernize manufacturing in the city. Programs being eyed to help young entrepreneurs include loans and tax incentives. As part of the initiative, the Fashion Production Fund is expected to launch before yearend to give emerging designers access to production financing, requiring that they use local factories to make their products.
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)