BEIJING — It’s been five years since Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz last held a show here, an eternity for the fast-developing Chinese capital. Back then, the trendy east-side development that now houses one of Lanvin’s two Beijing boutiques didn’t even exist, along with countless other skyscrapers now dotting the city skyline.
So there was, the designer said, a lot to catch up on in Lanvin’s fashion show here Thursday night.
“I don’t like retrospectives. I always feel quite wrong about doing retro. I am also very superstitious,” Elbaz said in an interview hours before the show, which was held to mark his 10th year at the fashion house. “What I wanted to do tonight is not to bring them a show and a price tag and a location and an address to say go and shop tomorrow….What we want to do tonight is to [bring] back the dream of fashion.”
Lanvin staged a 61-model, 70-look show at the prestigious Beijing Hotel, a red-carpet affair drawing regional celebrities including Chinese starlets Fan Bingbing and Ni Ni, the latter from the film “The Flowers of War,” and Taiwanese-Canadian model Godfrey Gao of last year’s Louis Vuitton campaign.
Mainly drawn from the fall collection, ranging from the closely tailored to pieces dripping with jewels and feathers, the show also included some pieces from Elbaz’s recent archives.
The event — in which Elbaz repeated his end-of-show dance on the runway from the Paris show, though not his solo — was followed by an elaborate after party featuring May Day poles draped with flowers and waitstaff in Lanvin velvet jackets. It capped off an intense day that included a morning press conference with simultaneous Chinese translation and an afternoon, invitation-only signing of 40 copies of Elbaz’s 10th anniversary book.
Lanvin faces a hard sell in China, where its no-logo philosophy runs in stark contrast to the Chinese nouveau-riche taste for the largest, flashiest labels around. It’s also competing with less expensive luxury brands in a market where, despite a fast-rising middle class, the average annual wage in Beijing last year was still the equivalent of $8,900.
For the moment, while other foreign fashion houses are racing to open in China’s second- and even third-tier cities, Lanvin has so far focused only on the top-tier cities of Beijing and Shanghai.
“Our luxury is really sophisticated, elegant, refined, it can be sensual….For these you really need a sophisticated consumer, it is not one that approaches mass luxury,” said Thierry Andretta, Lanvin’s chief executive officer, who was in Beijing along with the fashion house’s president, Madame Wang Shaw-Lan. “[That market in China] is starting. It is the reason that today we are having stores only in the primary cities. We will move into the secondary cities soon, but nothing is yet decided.”
The label will add a fifth boutique to its Chinese operations next month when it opens a third shop in Shanghai Reel; Lanvin also has two boutiques offering ready-to-wear men’s and women’s collections in Beijing.
That’s not to say China is not a key emerging market for the brand. Lanvin has just unveiled a Chinese-language version of its Web site to accompany English, French and Japanese, and men’s wear designer Lucas Ossendrijver said Asian clients are accommodated with lighter fabrics and color choices to go with warmer climates.
Otherwise, Lanvin is Lanvin, even in Asia.
“For me, all women around the world are alike. They all like a red dress, they all like a bit of chocolate before bed, they all cry at the same things. I don’t see there is a difference, in the end, between an Asian woman and an American woman,” Elbaz said.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)