The story of Cuts, the new label by JF & Son designers Jesse Finkelstein and Katie King, began with a party. Not your typical fashion party, this was a bash celebrating — why not? — a laser-cutting machine.
The event, hosted by City University of New York’s design entrepreneurial program called NYDesigns, took place last summer to fete its new 100W large-format Trotec machine. Guests there lasered everything from slabs of wood and plastic to ham sandwiches and crepes. Industrial designer Kevin McElroy, who happens to be friends with Finkelstein’s sister, fiddled with some jersey. Soon after, “He approached us to collaborate,” recalls Finkelstein. “It was a really interesting opportunity for all of us. The goal here is always to figure out how to create new and innovative textiles.”
In addition to their JF & Son collection, Finkelstein and King have a side business doing fabric development and production for other designers. In fact, the partnership with McElroy, who has designed home products and packaging, started out simply as a way to create new textiles with intriguing cut-out designs.
“That was the initial thought,” says Finkelstein. “We’d give him different materials — georgettes, linens, cottons — and he would come back with these beautiful swatches. It became really clear that this would really resonate if we made them into garments. That’s when we decided to make a collection around this collaboration.”
The trio dubbed the line Cuts and added three backslashes to the logo because, Finkelstein says, “they looked like cuts to me,” adding that, “While laser-cutting in and of itself is not terribly new, our goal was to use natural materials to make these cuttings more organic.”
Retailing from $88 to $528, the 17-piece fall collection ranges from leather tanks and shorts to simple pleated linen skirts and a cotton dress. Silhouettes are casual and basic — the better to showcase the intricate laser cut-outs, which range from tiny slashes and geometrics to a textured sequinlike pattern. There are bags too, including a canvas tote and an oversize leather hobo.
For those more familiar with JF & Son’s rich beadwork and embroideries, Finkelstein notes that the Cuts offerings aren’t that far off. “It’s the same process as creating a print or embroidery design,” he explains. “It’s really the same thing when you think about it.”
But, come spring, the designer says there will be more obvious crossover. “The next step is sending the laser pieces to our studio in India and having them play with them and see what comes out of that,” says Finkelstein. “There will be a whole other level of experience.”
Taking the final spot on the mens’ portion of New York Fashion Week calendar next month will be none other than @tomford. Though he’s shown his men’s wear in New York in the past, this will mark the first time the designer has shown his men’s collection alone during New York Fashion Week: Men’s. His runway show will debut on February 6 at the Park Avenue Armory. #wwdfashion
London-based couture house @ralphandrusso has certainly been in the spotlight, having its dresses worn by @beyonce, Angelina Jolie, Meghan Markle in her engagement photos and more. For couture, Tamara Ralph focused on ornamentation — think: feathers with chain mail, jet embroidery and clusters of pearls and crystals. See the rest of the collection on WWD.com #wwdfashion #couture (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
Minnie Mouse celebrated her 90th birthday by getting her own star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. For her celebratory luncheon, @coach’s creative director @stuartvevers dressed her in a custom made prairie dress, complete with Vever’s take on the polka dot – black sequined versions – under a cropped motorcycle jacket. The designer also put his own mark on Minnie’s classic red shoes, infusing the color with sparkles and adding some Coach crystals. “We chose colors that were very Minnie and also represented quintessential Coach elements,” said Vevers. #wwdfashion #nationalpolkadotday (📷: George Chinsee)
@nickjonas is unveiling his first-ever apparel collection through a partnership with John Varvatos. The limited-edition capsule, which makes its debut in spring, also marks the first time the designer has collaborated with anyone on a line. “The process in working with Nick is amazing. It’s inspiring to be around someone who is not only connected with the trade that they do, but also with what’s happening in the environment around him, and how that connects to what we do with style,” said Varvatos. (RG: @johnvarvatos) #wwdfashion
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)