New York Fashion Week’s move to Lincoln Center earned generally favorable marks from designers and retailers, although the packed schedule and its hither-and-yon schedule drew complaints from many buyers.
“Lincoln Center was a triumph,” said Carolina Herrera. “The way it was constructed, the entrance, and the outside gardens, it was all fantastic.”
Mark Badgley said, “It just felt like New York. It was good for fashion, good for designers and good for the city. I know the first time is always a novelty but all the people we invited — socialites, celebrities and industry — they were really into it.”
Isaac Mizrahi was another fan of the uptown digs. “There was something elegant about it and I think it was a little more organized than Bryant Park. Also, somehow it felt less anxiety-provoking by not being in the center of town.”
Pleased as he was, the designer is not committing to a second consecutive season just yet. “I may show there again next season, but I can’t be sure because I like to change things a little from time to time,” he said. “I would definitely show there again in the future.”
Lela Rose was also at ease with how everything worked out for her Sept. 12 show and to have fashion showcased in a hub for the arts. However, she did hear “a few grumblings about the GPS system for seating, but I suspect all kinks will be worked out by next season.”
Prabal Gurung was also high on the location’s cultural significance. “The magnitude of the place itself, the buildings, what it represents historically…you don’t feel it until you go there,” Gurung said. “It’s a perfect home for fashion. There was this incredible energy. It was easy to navigate and to find, traveling back and forth was easier also. There weren’t any crazy traffic jams. I think it worked out perfectly.”
While the new check-in system for guests was lauded by many, some thought the check-in desks, screens to direct people to the right venue, and little white printouts with seating information were reminiscent of airport terminals — environments usually lesser known for high-fashion statements.
“It’s like being on Jet Blue,” Marjorie Gubelmann said. “I love it.”
Robert Burke said he started the show season feeling “very skeptical,” but thought the set-up was “well organized,” especially the check-in system. In addition, the layout resulted in “less riffraff looking on than usual,” he said.
Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director of Neiman Marcus, pointed to the mall’s outdoor plaza as a welcome extra. “There is some room to maneuver and breathe, and gather yourself and your team,” he said. “Now, if we could only get the schedule to be less uptown, downtown…it would be very helpful if there is an attempt to schedule blocks of shows in one part of the town. Think of how much more ecologically correct we would be.”
It was a common complaint about store buyers, who felt they spent a large part of the week in taxis or Town Cars shuttling from one end of Manhattan to the other. “I thought Lincoln Center worked,” said Nicole Fischelis, group vice president and fashion director of Macy’s Inc. “What didn’t work is that there are still too many collections all over the city.”
Barbara Atkins, vice president and creative director of Holt Renfrew, was even more vocal. “The venue felt very spacious, but it wasn’t very convenient for buyers. We’re all over the city, running to see showrooms in between shows. It seems that fewer designers were showing at Lincoln Center. Most were downtown. The travel was very difficult. It felt like a trade show.”
Overall, though, buyers were pleased with the new locale, as summed up by Bergdorf Goodman’s Linda Fargo, who gave it a two thumbs-up. “If I had four, five or six hands, the thumbs would all go up,” she said. “It’s efficient. We underestimate how when things are well organized, it relieves stress. Fashion week is stressful enough.”
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
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EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)