PARIS — It looks like Lindsay Lohan’s Paris fashion career will be limited to exciting the paparazzi with her front-row appearances.
Named artistic director of Emanuel Ungaro last year in a daring bid to jump-start a languishing business, Lohan was not at the Ungaro show Monday morning, leaving chief designer Estrella Archs to take a solo bow.
“She’s not involved in this collection,” Ungaro owner Asim Abdullah told WWD backstage before the fall show, declining further comment.
Later in the day, Lohan turned up in Kenzo’s front row. Asked why she hadn’t been at Ungaro, she replied: “Because I don’t work for them anymore.” Prompted for more specifics, she noted, “There’s legal things going on; I can’t really discuss it.”
The tabloid sensation unleashed chaos at some shows, with appearances at Christian Dior, John Galliano and Viktor & Rolf. She also took in several fashion week parties.
The abrupt end of her Ungaro stint follows the December departure of president Mounir Moufarrige, the architect of a plan to leverage Lohan’s notoriety to inject excitement into a French brand that has endured a revolving door of designers and lackluster collections.
“Designer-led fashion is likely not to be enough. It’s a slow process going the traditional route,” Moufarrige told WWD last year, characterizing Lohan as the ultimate fashion girl who would give vital “consumer” input.
“Consumers today know what they want, and they have an eye as well,” he contended.
At the time, Lohan mapped out a plan to take Ungaro to a “younger place” with a harder fashion edge. “When I’m involved in a project, I give my all to it,” she said in an interview in September. “Clothing is something that’s so expressive in so many ways. It really interests me.”
Nevertheless, Lohan and Spanish-born Archs received brickbats from retailers and editors for their first collection in October, with descriptions ranging from “very Los Angeles” to “cheesy” to “truly, deeply horrible.” (For a review of Ungaro’s fall collection, see page 9.)
Reached on Monday, Moufarrige declined all comment on Lohan and Ungaro. In December, Ungaro named Marie Fournier its new general manager to oversee all operations. An 18-year veteran of the company, Fournier was previously Ungaro’s vice president in charge of business development and licensing.
Abdullah, a high-tech entrepreneur, acquired Ungaro in 2005 from Salvatore Ferragamo and has already seen several designers come and go. Lohan and Archs succeeded Bogotá, Colombia-born Esteban Cortazar, whose three collections for the house failed to ignite much commercial or press interest in the brand.
Peter Dundas, who is now the designer at Emilio Pucci; Vincent Darré, now devoted to a signature furniture line, and Giambattista Valli, who showed his signature label Monday, came before Cortazar as Ungaro designers following the retirement of its founding couturier in 2004.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)