LONDON — The men’s wear offer on the last day of London Fashion Week Wednesday ranged from the sublime to the amateurish, with established names — such as Hardy Amies, J.W. Anderson and E. Tautz — showing alongside unpolished, emerging designers.
Oliver Benjamin, the new creative director of Hardy Amies, pulled together a modern collection filled with unstructured, single-breasted suits and soft pieces such as suede bomber jackets edged in cashmere. “We wanted this collection to be elegant and easy to wear. Going forward, this collection is going to get softer and less-structured,” he said.
Another Savile Row name, Patrick Grant of E. Tautz, gave showgoers a personal presentation of the house’s spring collection at Somerset House, talking the audience through each look. The gentlemanly lineup was filled with linen jackets, Mod-inspired slim pants in lightweight wool and Harrington jackets in lamb’s wool. “We’re embracing the crumpled English summertime look,” said Grant, referring to the linen pieces.
Carolyn Massey also riffed on heritage designs. Her cool separates came in shapes that recalled English schoolboys’ uniforms — there were crisp navy shorts and wind-cheaters with wooden buttons at the neck in royal blue and mustard. Massey also added some global accents to the lineup — some models wore shorts with draped, tuniclike garments. Looks were accessorized with desert boots and wide-brimmed straw hats.
J.W. Anderson turned out an artsy-craftsy bohemian collection fit for stylish festivalgoers. Designer Jonathan Anderson’s designs might not be for everyone, but it was a charming collection with a feminine edge, including sparkly details and shiny fat studs on knits; cropped, raw-edged jackets, and a short-sleeve orange sweater with an abstract argyle pattern down the front.
James Long’s collection also had a free-spirited vibe. Models stomped down the runway to Nirvana’s “Come As You Are” wearing rolled-up jeans shorts and shirts covered in Jackson Pollock-esque splatters of paint, in a palette of purple, pinks and blues. The designer, who said the collection was inspired by “different youth cultures,” also showed knit versions of the look, in which purple splashes of paint had been knitted into a gray sweater. There were also some standout leather pieces, such as a tan vest splashed with what looked like green and red ink.
Artsy knits were also front and center at Sibling, the knitwear label designed by Joe Bates, Sid Bryan and Cozette McCreery. Looks included intarsia sweaters knit with the word “punk” — designed to look like Robert Indiana’s “Love” sculpture — while another sweater came in an intarsia camouflage print in red, yellow, white and black.
Man, the Topman-sponsored group show for emerging designers, was another story altogether. They turned out playful collections that might well be a difficult sell. Martine Rose’s references included hip-hop, Morocco and black bondage leather; Felipe Rojas Llanos had a more minimal outing, with translucent T-shirts, bright blue satin pants and roomy coats, and New Power Studio sent out a lineup of sporty pieces such as jogging pants, sweatshirts and zipped bombers.
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye
Did you know: @carlychaikin of "Mr. Robot" has been painting for about a decade? The actress, who plays Darlene on the show, is a self-taught artist who lists Salvador Dalí and Chuck Close as some of her idols. Chaikin told WWD that painting is a form of meditation for her — A much-needed one given the intensity of "Mr. Robot." See a piece Chaikin is working on at WWD.com (📷: @jilliansollazzo) #wwdeye