A few rising talents and some familiar faces on the London scene.
Reynold Pearce and Andrew Fionda, aka Pearce Fionda, are not exactly what you’d call newcomers to the London Fashion Week lineup. They gathered numerous industry accolades from 1996 through 1999, when they were regulars on the LFW schedule, and this season, they are making a return to the catwalk after a 14-year absence.
“It’s been at the back of our minds for a while now, and we just felt that the time was right,” said Pearce. “It seemed that our style of sophisticated and glamorous dressing, with an attention to unusual cutting, wasn’t represented at the moment.”
Pearce and Fionda, who met in 1985, when they were both studying fashion in college, have not been far from the industry in the intervening years. The pair design a collection for Debenhams together, while Pearce has been teaching — he says he’s “a big advocate of technique and pattern-cutting” — and Fionda was running vintage boutiques in Brighton.
Their return to the catwalk promises an emphasis on special-occasion clothes and dresses that play on their strengths of pattern-cutting.
“This season is an evolution of what we’re known for,” said Pearce. “It started from trying to think of new ways of applying our technique of cutting, so that formed the silhouette and the attention on the areas of the body that are going to be important for us this season; the back is our zone this season.”
Expect long, lean lines, some high-tech fabrics, a smattering of embellishment and flashes of flesh.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast