Fashion is a question of method, according to Gabriele Colangelo. “I studied ancient literature, Latin and Greek, and I have a humanistic background which strongly influences my working method,” said the designer, seated in his new showroom on Milan’s Viale Premuda. “I focus on subtraction, I try to reaffirm a certain idea of purity.”
Architectural, clean shapes combined with experimental, high-end fabrics are the trademark of his collections. Son of a fur artisan (his father, Sergio, manufactures the Colangelo’s fur pieces), the designer cut his teeth at several Italian brands including Versace, Just Cavalli and at Mariella Burani Group prior to launching his own label in February 2008.
“My first collection was a kind of experiment,” said Colangelo. “I was in India for 15 days visiting a friend who has an embroidery company and before leaving I had left my father the sketches of a few fur pieces to cut. When I came back from my trip, I just matched the embroideries with the samples. A few days later, I was presenting off-calendar at Milan Fashion Week.” In June of that year, Colangelo won Vogue Italia and Alta Roma’s Who Is On Next? talent contest.
Although he became a fast hit with press, Colangelo stressed the difficulties of creating a solid business network. “I started my own business at the same time as the financial crisis hit and this didn’t help the commercial affirmation of a brand like mine, which is based on deep research and has an individual aesthetic,” Colangelo said.
His clothes retail at a range of stores worldwide, including No.30 in Milan, Koon in Seoul, Secret Location in Vancouver and Emporium in Bangkok. He’s planning to launch bags for spring 2015.
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
After showing in front of the Eiffel Tower for his last two women’s ready-to-wear collection, it looks like @anthonyvaccarello may be heading to the Big Apple. Sources say the designer will stage his next @ysl show in NYC on June 6. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion