Within the past few seasons, Shayne Oliver has become quite a sensation. His Hood by Air collection has been picked up by retailers including Barneys New York, Selfridges and Opening Ceremony, while it’s gained loyal fans in influencers like Kanye West, Rihanna and Drake.
Oliver has also made indelible impressions with his two New York Fashion Week shows. For spring, he tapped rapper A$AP Rocky to open, and for fall, the muscularly androgynous dancers “vogue-ing” for guests were as statement-making as his curiously gender-bending looks.
The designer eschews the constraints of high fashion sensibilities while pushing the boundaries of streetwear. For his most recent lineup, he featured zipper-lined denim, grommeted suede and leather bombers along with whipstitched sweaters and his signature oversize printed T-shirts. “It’s meant to create a vagueness within strength,” Oliver said of his collection.
The name of the line came from a slang that he and his friends used while growing up in Brooklyn. “‘Hood by air’ meant to get fresh, get done up, be a dandy,” Oliver said. It’s an ethos that can be found within the brand’s identity. Oliver briefly attended the Fashion Institute of Technology before unofficially starting his line in 2006 with T-shirts emblazoned with the word “Hood.”
Ultimately, it was lessons learned from the streets — namely skaters — that provided him with the best fashion education. “I learned style from skaters and how to dress like a man — the new way of dressing like a man,” he said. “It’s not even about masculinity. It was about raw and powerful pieces that were abrupt styling and techniques of looking a certain way, and also what social meaning pieces have in general. Why the product is talking to you.” RELATED STORY: Hood By Air Men's RTW Fall 2014 >>
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
After showing in front of the Eiffel Tower for his last two women’s ready-to-wear collection, it looks like @anthonyvaccarello may be heading to the Big Apple. Sources say the designer will stage his next @ysl show in NYC on June 6. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion