Best known for his tailoring and dramatic, curving silhouettes, Thomas Tait said his fall collection was something of a watershed. “I’ve reached a point where what I am doing creatively is talking back to me,” said the London-based Canadian designer. “The brand itself is getting its own voice and growing and surpassing me as a person.” Indeed, anyone who’s been following Tait’s trajectory could see that his latest lineup, with its exaggerated angular silhouettes and Bauhaus and Constructivist touches, was his boldest outing yet. “I really let loose,” the designer said.
Tait, who at 24 was the youngest student to complete the Central Saint Martins women’s wear master’s degree program, is evolving in myriad ways. He won the inaugural Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize a few months after showing his first collection at London Fashion Week in 2010, and is now quickly building an international business. Wholesale clients include Louis Boston, Jeffrey, Blake in Chicago, Corso Como in Milan and Seoul independents Boon and Space Mue.
With that success brings the typical young designer’s dilemma. “The reality is that you need to make your brand a commercial success and you need working capital to meet your orders. That is the main struggle for me,” said Tait. “If you don’t have that money, then you don’t want to take on an order and potentially ruin a relationship because you cannot fulfill it.” He said winning the LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize would ease the pain: “Often you don’t know where to turn or who to ask for help. The bigwigs at LVMH have seen fashion from every angle.”
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast