Rich fall colors, often combined with earthy neutrals, played a strong role on the runways, in looks ranging from fur-trimmed coats to fluid print dresses.
John Galliano: "It's not the egg rolls, Harry. It's the last 10 years." So quipped the put-upon wife to her husband in an old New Yorker cartoon. In the increasingly listless marriage that is this industry's show system (retailers and press, wife; houses and organizing bodies, Harry), John Galliano caught the brunt of the missus' frustration. The irritation with which his audience left his show on Friday night had less to do with the hour-plus wait than with the last four weeks. Or is it six weeks, going back to couture? Or the endless treadmill of constantly looking at the next batch of clothes? (Next up, kids: Cruise, kicking off May 12.)
Galliano started out happily, with an invitation that beckoned guests to Xanadu. Though the trek was far enough to really get there, once inside, everyone reveled in the elaborately done venue, set up as an old-time movie set and populated appropriately — writer-director, various actors in costume, stagehands, and the like. But once people settled into their seats for what remained of the wait, the goodwill dissipated.
Typically, you can't help but get caught up in the fancy of a mega-Galliano production, the vamping girls, the frivolity, the joie de mode, especially when the clothes are strong, and these were delightful. Though they weren't for the most part new for Galliano, their playfulness, color and wit looked pretty darned fresh this season, and he did work a few novelties into the mix of gentle dresses, girly separates, glamorous furs and great coats. Case in point: a divine big blue sweater coat with crewel embroidery.
Yet, glancing at the crowd throughout the show, no one within sight cracked a smile. By the time it started, the mass adrenaline rush sparked by the set had vanished and people were too exhausted, perhaps even too uninterested, to be engaged by anything short of a transformative performance, which this was not. Thus, Galliano's considerable effort and execution fell flat.
Luckily, nobody's bad mood gets shipped to a store. But it should be noted that audience negativity (at least among Americans, who perhaps don't matter much these days, anyway) is reaching a crisis point. Fashion shows are supposed to create excitement. If retailers and editors don't get excited about the shows, and don't even try to fake it anymore, how are they supposed to excite consumers into spending those incredibly shrinking dollars?Hermès: Hermès on the fringe? In a way, yes. Jean Paul Gaultier used a string theory of sorts in his fall collection for Hermès, fringing and tasselling cashmere wrap skirts, silk-scarf blouses and dresses and other ultraluxe fare, but that's as out-there as it got. Though Gaultier set his audience up for one of his far-flung exotic romps with an Oriental-rug runway and peculiar soundtrack, it turned out to be a ruse for a très classique Hermès collection. And no complaints here.
From beginning to end, there was no shortage of terrific timeless staples. Cashmere peacoats, check. Sharp smoking jackets and trousers, check. Leathers done in classic trenches, croc-printed suede blazers and handbags galore, check, check, check. Everything was cut just right in fabulous, best-of fabrics and was styled à la chic Parisian, which is to say layered, but not piled up, and topped off with gloves and knitted beanies. Throughout, Gaultier used the house's scarf prints to spice things up. Done in a paisley print, they added a touch of ritzy bohemia to pleated silk skirts and handkerchief dresses. Meanwhile, swingy Mongolian lamb shearlings took the look a little rock — classic rock, that is.
Chloé: In his first few outings for Chloé, Paulo Melim Andersson broke ties with the label's charming ingenue ethos in favor of a tough, angsty girl one season and a gentle artsy type the next. Now, Melim Andersson seems to be getting into the groove of things, with a lineup that nodded nicely to Phoebe Philo's sweet-miss template without losing his edgier stance. The result: This girl is a little bit English countryside and a little bit rock 'n' roll. She "belongs to the magpie school of looking good," the show notes explained.
And, indeed, the collection reflected a certain toss-and-go nonchalance of someone rummaging a little here, a little there and even nicking some threads "from her Kensington nanny." For instance: the pretty chiffon tea dresses in Seventies-esque garden-floral prints, some worn under boxy mannish blazers for a tomboy counterpoint, or the kicky beaded dresses tossed over a sheer or patterned blouse. That quirky potpourri spirit extended to the embellishments, too. Melim Andersson took a crafts-class approach, with crystals and small pleated wheels artfully tracing everything from tailored vests and jackets to diaphanous dresses, even one coat tricked out with patches of fur. It made for an appealing take on the appliqué work that has become a house standard.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews