Rich fall colors, often combined with earthy neutrals, played a strong role on the runways, in looks ranging from fur-trimmed coats to fluid print dresses.
John Galliano: "It's not the egg rolls, Harry. It's the last 10 years." So quipped the put-upon wife to her husband in an old New Yorker cartoon. In the increasingly listless marriage that is this industry's show system (retailers and press, wife; houses and organizing bodies, Harry), John Galliano caught the brunt of the missus' frustration. The irritation with which his audience left his show on Friday night had less to do with the hour-plus wait than with the last four weeks. Or is it six weeks, going back to couture? Or the endless treadmill of constantly looking at the next batch of clothes? (Next up, kids: Cruise, kicking off May 12.)
Galliano started out happily, with an invitation that beckoned guests to Xanadu. Though the trek was far enough to really get there, once inside, everyone reveled in the elaborately done venue, set up as an old-time movie set and populated appropriately — writer-director, various actors in costume, stagehands, and the like. But once people settled into their seats for what remained of the wait, the goodwill dissipated.
Typically, you can't help but get caught up in the fancy of a mega-Galliano production, the vamping girls, the frivolity, the joie de mode, especially when the clothes are strong, and these were delightful. Though they weren't for the most part new for Galliano, their playfulness, color and wit looked pretty darned fresh this season, and he did work a few novelties into the mix of gentle dresses, girly separates, glamorous furs and great coats. Case in point: a divine big blue sweater coat with crewel embroidery.
Yet, glancing at the crowd throughout the show, no one within sight cracked a smile. By the time it started, the mass adrenaline rush sparked by the set had vanished and people were too exhausted, perhaps even too uninterested, to be engaged by anything short of a transformative performance, which this was not. Thus, Galliano's considerable effort and execution fell flat.
Luckily, nobody's bad mood gets shipped to a store. But it should be noted that audience negativity (at least among Americans, who perhaps don't matter much these days, anyway) is reaching a crisis point. Fashion shows are supposed to create excitement. If retailers and editors don't get excited about the shows, and don't even try to fake it anymore, how are they supposed to excite consumers into spending those incredibly shrinking dollars?Hermès: Hermès on the fringe? In a way, yes. Jean Paul Gaultier used a string theory of sorts in his fall collection for Hermès, fringing and tasselling cashmere wrap skirts, silk-scarf blouses and dresses and other ultraluxe fare, but that's as out-there as it got. Though Gaultier set his audience up for one of his far-flung exotic romps with an Oriental-rug runway and peculiar soundtrack, it turned out to be a ruse for a très classique Hermès collection. And no complaints here.
From beginning to end, there was no shortage of terrific timeless staples. Cashmere peacoats, check. Sharp smoking jackets and trousers, check. Leathers done in classic trenches, croc-printed suede blazers and handbags galore, check, check, check. Everything was cut just right in fabulous, best-of fabrics and was styled à la chic Parisian, which is to say layered, but not piled up, and topped off with gloves and knitted beanies. Throughout, Gaultier used the house's scarf prints to spice things up. Done in a paisley print, they added a touch of ritzy bohemia to pleated silk skirts and handkerchief dresses. Meanwhile, swingy Mongolian lamb shearlings took the look a little rock — classic rock, that is.
Chloé: In his first few outings for Chloé, Paulo Melim Andersson broke ties with the label's charming ingenue ethos in favor of a tough, angsty girl one season and a gentle artsy type the next. Now, Melim Andersson seems to be getting into the groove of things, with a lineup that nodded nicely to Phoebe Philo's sweet-miss template without losing his edgier stance. The result: This girl is a little bit English countryside and a little bit rock 'n' roll. She "belongs to the magpie school of looking good," the show notes explained.
And, indeed, the collection reflected a certain toss-and-go nonchalance of someone rummaging a little here, a little there and even nicking some threads "from her Kensington nanny." For instance: the pretty chiffon tea dresses in Seventies-esque garden-floral prints, some worn under boxy mannish blazers for a tomboy counterpoint, or the kicky beaded dresses tossed over a sheer or patterned blouse. That quirky potpourri spirit extended to the embellishments, too. Melim Andersson took a crafts-class approach, with crystals and small pleated wheels artfully tracing everything from tailored vests and jackets to diaphanous dresses, even one coat tricked out with patches of fur. It made for an appealing take on the appliqué work that has become a house standard.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)