Roberto Etxeberría and his namesake brand are all over the fashion radar.
Last year, the 38-year-old Barcelona-based men’s wear designer participated in a barrage of global trade events with Gernika, his sober gray and black spring collection. His unique brand of elongated silhouettes, below-the-knee pants, shorts and generally relaxed, volume-conscious shapes with zips-no-buttons detailing caught the attention of buyers in New York, Las Vegas, Paris, Berlin, Prague and Mexico.
Current accounts include such high-profile shops as Oak, Atrium and Untitled in New York, and Yoahm in Paris.
For next fall’s Midwinter Men collection, Etxeberría said, “I’m showing a complete day-to-night wardrobe. Volume takes inspiration from the Twenties and retro British tailoring, especially for evening clothes. Silhouettes are snug at the waist and knee, with a stronger shoulder and hip through Japanese sleeves and a double pleat with either a zipper or a seam.
The designer, who started his business in 2008, said his last two collections were based on roomy shapes and volume.
“Without meaning to, I distanced myself from traditional classic cuts,” he said. “I need to revisit the concept.”
Luxury fabrics “are fundamental in my work,” and for next fall, wools and felt are mixed with leather and fur. “The felts trace such traditional patterns as herringbone, houndstooth and jacquard, and obviously similar characteristics apply to the women’s line,” he added.
Retail prices are 240 to 800 euros ($328 to $1,094) for knit-and-leather combination pieces, and up to 1,800 euros ($2,461) for all-leather items.
Etxeberría works from his home, a stylish multilevel house with a Fifties vibe, swimming pool and penthouse studio skirting the Catalan capital. And that’s how he has managed to stay afloat in these rough economic times — “all prototypes and production [of the collections] is done there,” he said, adding that international sales have also been key.
Spanish brand Ana Locking by Ana González has a lot to say for itself — and it’s never quite what you might think.
For instance, her current spring collection, called What Does God Say, took as its starting point the American one-dollar bill.
“Inspiration takes form in an international icon, the American dollar, she said in her spring show notes. “The phrase ‘In God We Trust’ makes us reflect upon the title of the collection, What Does God Say. A contemporary man, after losing his faith, will in many cases believe more in the power of money than in himself or his own instincts.”
She added, “We’re losing our faith and our hope in each other; we need to be ourselves.”
For fall, the 43-year-old Madrid-based designer taps into a coast-to-coast trip across the U.S. American Landscape features pants and separates including “unconventional” sweatshirts with fewer dresses than usual. Colors are woodsy green, coral, red, brown and a denimlike blue.
The collection has an air of the modern cowboy, and it’s all mixed up with unexpected print and fabric combos like cotton tweed, Lurex and double-face Neoprene paired with sequins and, in some cases, feathers.
Retail prices range from 90 euros ($123) for a top or T-shirt to 200 euros ($274) for a skirt and 800 euros (about $1,100) for eveningwear.
Why the big interest in Americana? The American market is top priority, González said. “I love the U.S. culture — it’s very practical. Americans don’t waste your time and they have a great sense of humor.”
Her business, begun in 2008, is still small, with sales of about $200,000 a year. Currently the brand is looking for an investor, and scouting international showrooms in Paris and the U.S., “where we’re making inroads with various projects,” she said, specifically in Los Angeles and Hollywood. “It’s a bad moment in Spain. There is no buying power here, and no experience with fashion other than made-to-measure and low cost.”
“I think what’s so interesting about the #MeToo movement and this whole new wave of feminism in general, is that women are finally seeing, ’Oh I can start my own company, oh I can lear to code, oh I can leave my nine-to-five job and do the thing I want to do,” said @brooklyndecker ahead of her @sxsw talk for @createcultivate. The former model took the stage to share wisdom about networking and female-driven entrepreneurship. #wwdeye #sxsw (📷: @jgreenery)
“I was making the guacamole when my scout saw me,” says model @stuckinteenage on being discovered just six months ago while working at @chipotlemexicangrill. Since then Williams has signed with @dnamodels, walked in her first show at @calvinklein and landed on the cover of @vogueitalia – a high point of any model’s career. To read @lisajlockwood’s full interview with the model on her experiences thus far, head to WWD.com – link in bio. (📷: George Chinsee)
“I love the idea of dialogue, period. It’s where I’ve always gotten my inspiration from: hearing other women speak, their journeys and their paths,” said @hereisgina, who delivered the keynote speech at the @sxsw conference for @createcultivate, the online platform and conference series for women. For her two panels, Rodriguez chose female empowering, female-led and female entrepreneurs to focus on. Head to WWD.com to read more about her thoughts on Time’s Up, growing up in a family of women and why we “need a girls’ club.” #wwdeye #sxsw (📷: @jgreenery)
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.